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Post by wildlifefriendly on Jan 22, 2011 14:25:36 GMT
No.2 BRASSICAS
In this article we are considering cabbages,cauliflowers and Brussels sprouts.Turnips,swedes and kohl rabi are also brassicas but they will be dealt with in a later article on root crops.
GROUND PREPARATION
All these crops need a good rich soil with plenty of organic matter and also firm soil for best results.They prefer a soil with a pH of 7-8 so lime is applied in the autumn if needed.I single dig the plot in the autumn incorporating as much manure as I can.In spring when the soil is dry enough I walk all over it to compact it.Then a week or so before planting I rake in general fertiliser such as fish blood and bone or growmore unless the soil tests which I carry out tell me to do otherwise.
SOWING
All these brassicas can be sown direct in the ground .However I prefer to sowthem in 3 inch [75cm.]pots of multipurpose compost in the greenhouse hardening the plants off before planting out.
CABBAGES
There are several cultivars we can grow and the time between sowing and harvesting varies slightly but 25 weeks is a rough average.You will need to look at your calendar and count back from your show date.Timing is not as critical as with cauliflowers because cabbages will stand in show condition longer.Depending on how many plants you have room for it is a good idea to sow on 2 different dates say 2 weeks apart.
BRUSSELS SPROUTS
There are cultivars that crop early[September -November]and some that crop through till the following spring.We are only interested in the early cultivars for showing.The time between sowing and harvesting can be anything from 26 to 30 weeks.
CAULIFLOWERS
Unlike cabbages and sprouts,cauliflowers do present a timing problem.This is because they don't keep in show condition for more than a few days.In fact this is what tests a growers skill more than anything else but don't let this put you off trying!.The time between sowing and cutting is about 18 to 20 weeks so again you will have to use your calendar.To be sure of having one or two at their peak on show day you need to make more than one sowing at say fortnightly intervals to have as many plants as possible to chose from.
PLANTING AND GROWING ON
Most of these remarks apply to cabbages,sprouts and cauliflowers.The first thing we need to think about is club root because they are all susceptable to this disease.Raising the pH of the soil by adding lime in the autumn helps to slow down the spread of the fungus.Another thing we can do to help is to water the roots of the plants in armillatox at the recommended rate.What I do is pot the plants on into 5 inch pot and grow them on in these so that I have a bigger plant and larger root system before planting out.Crop rotation also helps to control this and other soil born diseases.As regards crop rotation it is a good idea to plant them where legumes[peas and beans]have grown the previous year because these leave nitrogen in the soil for the benefit of the brassicas[All leafy crops benefit from nitrogen]
When planting[usually late May or early June]allow about 2 feet[600mm.]between plants and plant firmly.I usually plant the sprouts in a row at the back and tha cabbages and cauliflowers in front.The sprouts will will eventually need tying to a cane as they grow about 3 or4 feet [900 or 1200mm]tall depending on the cultivar.Cauliflowers in particular must not have any check in growth so dont let them get pot bound before planting.
Another thing we need to think about is cabbage root fly.The adult lays its eggs on the soil close to the plantsand when the grubs hatch they burrow into the roots of the plants causing them to wilt in dry weather.Blue tinged leaves are another tell-tale sign.One way to solve the problem is to put felt discs round the base of the plants to prevent egg laying.you can buy them but they are easy to make yourself using carpet underfelt.
All these plants benefit from high nitrogen feeds to promote leaf growth from about 2 weeks after planting and at intervals throughout the season.Cauliflowers need to build up a good leaf area before the curds begin to form.You can't get a quality curd from a smallplant with small leaves.If there is any check in growth the curd will begin to form too early before there are sufficient leaves to sustain it.For these feeds nitrochalk,dried blood or nitrate of soda are suitable just sprinkled round the plants.
The next pest we need to look at are caterpillars.They can skeletonise a plant in no time if not spotted.They are the larvae of cabbage white butterflies .the best way of prevention is to look on the underside of the leaves for the eggs and squash them.You will have to do this every other day or so.The eggs are yellow or yellowish green and are taller than they are wide.Those of the small white are laid singly whereas those of the large white are in clusters.Another way of prevention if you have only a small plot is to cover the bed with a fine net suspended on a framework of canes to keep the butterflies off.This is the way I do it.if any eggs do hatch the caterpillars can be killed by spraying with crop saver.If any caterpillars are missed they burrow into the heart of the plants and you can say goodby to any prizes!
You must also look out for slugs which can also get right into the hearts of the plants or they may just chew the outer leaves.I think slug pellets are the best solution sprinkled round the plants.
You could also be troubled with aphids or whitefly.Crop saver will take care of the aphids.Whitefly are not as easy to get rid of.You will need to spray at fortnightly intervals as the spray will only kill the adults and not the eggs.I have found the best spray for whitefly is "sprayday"
Also see that the plants never go short of water.Cabbages sometimes split and I think the reason is that if they are allowed to get dry they stop growing and as soon as they get more water they start growing again too quickly and split.The trick is to keep them growing at the same rate all the time.
HARVESTING AND SHOWING
CABBAGES
You get points for condition[including solidity],size and shape uniformity.
I go round the plotthe daqy before to decide which are the best and lift as many as I need with a fork.They need to be of a good size[about football size or larger],solid and the correct shape for the cultivar..Most cultivars are round but there are pointed ones.They also need to be a good colour and free from pests.In all the shows I go to you only need one for an entry but if two or more are required they need to be matched for size ,shape and colour.Check the wording of the schedule to see if the roots need to be left on which they usually are.If so,wash them and tie a small polythene bag round them and remove any discoloured leaves.
BRUSSEL SPROUTS
The points in this case are for condition ,{including solidity],size colour and uniformity[same as for cabbages]
The morning of the show or the night before snap off the sprouts with a sharp downward pull or cut them off close to the stem.Chose those that are large and solid.They are no good if they are loose which they sometimes are if the ground conditions were not right.I cut a lot more than I need for an entry and the rest keep my wife happy.I bring them into the house and sort them out on the kitchen table.You will have to check the schedule to see how many are needed[usually nine or twelve].Then choose a matching set of solid sprouts as large as possible.If one or two are larger than the rest,leave them out.Occasionally the outer leaf is split so remove it.If you remove too many leaves you will be downpointed.Once I have chosen my set I try to find a flat dish or bowlthe right size to hold them upright without falling over but not so tightly packed that the judge can't remove them to examine them.
CAULIFLOWERS
Points are for the same things as cabbages and sprouts.
As I said before timing is the main concernA week before the show the curds should be the size of a tennis ball.At this stage the leaves are bent over the top to exclude light which could discolour the curd.The day before the show I look for potential winners.Some may not be perfectly round,some may be discoloured and some may have begun to open -none of which we want.This is why you should grow as many as you can to have plenty to chose from.In the shows I go to only one is needed for an exhibit but if more than one are needed they need to be matched in every way.I dig them up the night before the show ,wash the roots and tie a bag round them as for cabbages.If they are at their best a few days before the show it is possible to hold them back by keeping them in a cool dark place.The leaves are normally trimmed level with the top of the curd.Be careful not to damage the curd during transport to the show.Lay it on the bench with the glistening white curd pointing towards the judge so he cant fail to be impressed and hopefully the first prize is yours!
CULTIVARS FOR EXHIBITION
CABBAGES
If you need a pointed cultivar I think "Winnigstsdt"is about the best.It is an old one but still going strong[Dobies,Marshalls]The best round ones I have grown areRamco[Shelleys,Medwyns],Castello[Marshalls],and Kilaxy[Dobies,Suttons}This one is resistant to club root.
SPROUTS
The one I grow is "Oliver"[Shelleys]The buttons are of good size and it comes early enough for September shows but still lasts for your Christmas dinner.Two others which have been recommended are Prelant and Cavalier[Select seeds]but I have not tried them myself.I am happy enough with Oliver.
CAULIFLOWERS
Fortunately,exhibition cultivars of cauliflowers are more readily available.I have had success with Beauty[Shelleys,Medwyns]Lateman[Dobies,Suttons'Unwins]and Mexico[Shelleys]
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Post by wildlifefriendly on Jan 22, 2011 14:26:31 GMT
NO 3 PEAS AND BEANS
I grow most vegetables on a 4 year rotation according to their soil requirements.Peas and beans go on the same plot.However,I dont think it is essential to rotate runner beans.I have grown them on the same place year after year without any problems.
PEAS
Exhibition peas are normally grown on the cordon system which means growing them on a single 8 ft. cane.
GROUND PREPARATION
I grow them in double rows two feet[600mm]apart in trenches prepared over the winter.The soil is taken out of the first trench one spade width and one spade deep.The bottom of the trench is broken up with a fork.A layer of 4 to 6 inches of green material is placed in the bottom followed by a layer of soil from the second trench then a layer of manure followed by the rest of the soil from the trench.This trench is then filled up the same way as the first using the soil from the first trench.Later,when the soil has settled the trenches are forked over againmixing the soil and manure together.
SOWING
Peas can be sown direct in the ground but I prefer to start them off in small pots in the greenhouse using multipurpose compost-one seed perpot one inch deep then harden them off in the cold frame before planting out.They take from ten to twelve weeks from sowing to picking so you will have to count back from your show date.It is a good idea to make 2 sowings2 or 3 weeks apart to cover any abnormalities of the season,particularly if you want to enter more than one show.When the plants are about 4 or 5 inches tall the top is pinched out.Side shoots will then grow and the strongest one is retained,the rest being removed.
GROWING ON
Although I am not saying it is essential I always test my soil.Unless the results show any unballances[they usually don't]I rake general fertiliser along the trenches a few weeks before planting,at 3 or 4 ounces per square yard..I use fish blood and bone for most crops.The pH of the soil is very important.For those not familiar with pH a pH of 7 is neutral anything below being acid and anything above being alkaline.Lime or limestone flour increases the pH andpeat,manure or compost decreases it.Different crops require different pH values and I will explain this more in later articles.Peas and beans like it neutral or slightly higher.If lime was needed I would have added it in the autumn and allowed it at least a month to do its job before carrying out the ground preparation.I don,t believe in adding lime before finding out if it is needed.You can do more harm than good if you are not careful.pH testing kitsare very simple to use and can be purchased easily.Now to get back to the peas.The canes are put in along the trenches 9 inches apart.I put a cane along the top and tie all the other canes to it.If the rows are more than 8 feet long [and they usually are] 2 canes have to be tied together.Three feet canes are tied accross the top every 6 feet or so to connect the 2 rows together to give the structure more stability.
If you have only room for one row you will have to knock a strong stake in at each ene and stretch a wire accross to fasten the canes to."V clips"are very good for this.
One plant is is planted at the bottom of each cane and the leading shoot trained up it securing it with rings or twistits every few inches.As the plant grows it will produce tendrils and side shoots from the leaf nodes.These are removed to direct the energy of the plant to producing flowers and pods.As regards fertiliser,the plants actually produce their own nitrogen but I think 2 or 3 feeds of maxicrop or phostrogenduring the growing season will benefit.Make sure that the plants don't go short of water ,particularly when the pods are forming.
Pea moth is the main pest and is responsible for maggoty peas..The insect lays its eggs in the flowers and this is the time to spray with a suitable insecticide.The other problem is powdery mildew which spreads quickly when conditions are right.It begins on the leaves and soon travels to the pods.It usually makes its appearance towards the end of August and is probably the reason whythere are not many entries in pea classes in late August and September.Spraying with a suitable fungicide fortnightly from mid August may help but it is not easy to control.
The week before the show the pods should be filling up nicely if you have got your timing right.I cut them the day before the show.It is important to handle them by the stalks and not the pods themselves.Handling the pods destroys the natural bloom and that is one thing the judge will look for.Lay the peas in a box lined with tissue paper beig careful not to mark them.
RUNNER BEANS
The trenches are made the same way as for peas but are 3 feet apart
SOWING
Timing is not as critical as for peas because runner beans crop over a longer period'The aim is to get them cropping as soon as possible.They are more tender than peas and won,t stand any frost.They can be sown direct but you don,t want them to come through the soil till late May or early June till the danger of frost is passed.It is much better to start them off in 4 inch pots in the greenhouse in late April or early May and harden the plants off before planting out.You will have larger plants to plant out and they will crop earlier.If you have shows from mid September it is a good idea to make a second sowing about 3 weeks after the first.
GROWING ON
What I said about fertilise application for peas applies to runner beans as well-indeed for any type of beans .
The plants are allowed to twine round the canes- not grown cordon system like exhibition peas.The canes need not be vertical-They can cross at the top with one cane along the top of the rows to which the canes are tied.If you are short of room they can be grown on a wigwam which means 4 or 6 canes arranged in in a square or circle 3 feet apart and tied together at the top..
Another way is to grow peas and runner beans up the same structure of canes-peas on one side and beans on the other I grew them like this for several years.At present I grow sweet peas on the other side to the runner beans and the peas seperate.
Incidently which ever way the canes are arranged,the space between the rows need not be wasted.I have successfully grown lettuce,radish,and rocket between the rows and no doubt other things can be tried.These crops need to be sown early enough to get them to a harvestable size before the peas or beans grow too tall and block out the light.
After the plants are planted they will soon begin to twine anticlockwise round the canes.Sometimes a plant does not like its own cane and decides to climb up another instead!If this happens ,just put it right!!
I begin feeding at fortnightly intervals as I do for peas
They are not susceptable to any diseases and blackfly is the only pest you are likely to encounter.Keep your eyes open for them particularly at the stem tips and under the leaves and spray with a good insecticide as soon as they are seen.I have never had trouble with beans not setting as some people do.If you do have trouble try watering along the rows with lime,a spoonful in a gallon of water.The most important thing is that they mustn,t ge short of water particularly when the beans are setting.When the beans have set I reduce the number of beans on each truss to 4 or5 .When the beans are about 6 inches long I gentlypress the pods to squash the beans inside which makes the pods grow longer.Always keep your eyes open for beans not growing straight.See that they hang down without any obstruction.
Some people begin cutting beans a week before the show when they are a certain length and continue every day till the show keeping them in a wet towel.This may be a good idea for national shows when 18 beans are required for an entry but at local shows you usually ony need 6 so I have not found this necessary.I cut them the day before the show and keep the overnight in a wet towel.I normally have plenty to pick from for the show and use the rest in the kitchen.-and we freeze some for Christmes as well.
BROAD BEANS
GROUND PREPARATION
I prepare the trench in the same way as for peas but make it 18 inches wide and rake fish blood and bone into the ground a few weeks before planting.
SOWING
Broad beans take about 14 weeks from sowing to cropping so again you need to look at your callendar.
I sow the seeds directly in the soil but I also sow some in 4 inch pots to plant in any gaps in the rows in case any do not germinate.I sow the seeds in staggered rows 9 inches apart .Drills are made 2 inches deep and the seeds are sown upright in these.When the beans are growing I give them each a 5 foot cane.Exhibition varieties grow about 4 or 5 feet tall.They are given fortnightly feeds in the same way as for peas and runner beans.
The main pest is blackfly but if you spray with a good insecticide when you see them you should keep them in check.The most common disease is chocolate spot.This is difficult to control when it gets hold and prevention is better than cure.If you spray at fortnightly intervals it should help to control it.
The plants should be kept well watered especially when flowering.Hopefully there will be plenty of beans for the show.Cut them as close to the stem as possible the day before the show and place them in a box lined with tissue paper.
FRENCH BEANS
GROUND PREPARATION
I don,t dig a trench as I do for the other beans.The ground is single dugin the winter incorporating manure.Then general fertiliser is raked in a week or two before sowing.
SOWING
French beans take about 10 to 12 weeks from sowing to picking so again check your callendar.I sow them in the same way as broad beansin staggered rows with the beans 6 inches apart and one and a half inches deep.As for broad beans I always sow some in pots in case any dont germinate.If all those sown dirctly germinate and those in pots are not needed to fill gaps they can be planted 4 or 5 in a 9 inch pot to give an extra crop.
GROWING ON
I give each plant a 3 foot cane and tie them to it.What I said for feeding and watering for broad beans applies to French beans as well.They are not prone to any pests or diseases but can sometimes get blackfly
Cut them the day before the show and wrap them in a wet towel overnight
SELECTION AND STAGING OF PEAS AND BEANS
SELECTION
I sometimes see people come to a show and tip their peas or beans on the show bench and start sorting them out.I always do my sorting at home when I can take my time.I lay them on the kitchen table on paper and arrange them according to size.This is the time to think about what the judge will be looking for.To avoid repetition I have grouped these remarks together for all 4 because many of the points are the same for peas or beans.
For all of them the pods must be fresh.This comes under the heading of "condition"in the judges book.Marks caused by rubbing against canes,pest or disease damage also comes under "condition"and you should discard any pods that show these defects.In all cases points are given for "uniformity".In close contest this is often the difference between getting a prize or not.It means uniformity of colour as well as size and shape.This is why I lay them onthe table alongside each other.Very often you get one or two longer than the rest but don,t put them in.You want as even a set as possible.
Peas are often curved depending on the variety but beans should always be straight.The point of leaving runner and French beans in a wet towel overnight is that if they are not quite straight they can be straightened by bending them gently while they are supple.If broad beans are not straight there is nothing you can do about it.You just have to hope you have enough straight ones!
Pods of peas should be full and contain about 9 to 11 peas.You can check this by holding them up to the light.Runner and French beans must not have any visible signs of seeds within the pods.If they have,they are "over the hill"and should be discarded.As regards size runner beans are best about 14 to 16 inches long ,broad beans8 to 10 inches and French beans about5 or 6 inches.This is only a rough guide.A lot depends on the variety.They dont have to be within these sizes provided that they are uniform.
Having made your selection they should be taken to the show wrapped in tissue paper or a damp towel in a strong box or tray.
STAGING
When at the show the trick is to make the judge notice your exhibit by good staging.First impressions may sway the judge in close competition.You must ALWAYS stage the correct amount according to the schedule.If you don,t you will get the dreaded letters N.A.S."not as schedule"on your exhibit and you will have done all your work for nothing!At local shows the number required is likely to be 6 for runner and broad beans and 6,9,or12 for French beans or peas but always CHECK THE SCHEDULE.
All peas and beans look better staged on black material.For peas and French beans I have boards of different sizes covered with black material.Arrange the peas or beans with the stalks at the top al cut to the same length.Peas are sometimes staged like the spokes of a wheel but I prefer them side by side and I think the judges do too.If the peas are curved [and in some varieties they always are]arrange them so they all curve the same way.
I have said that peas and beans should be the same length but it is not always possible.If they are slightly different it is possible to create an optical illusion by putting the longer ones in the middle and shorter ones on the outside.Pods should not be marked in any way as I have said but if they are ,place them good side up.The judge will certainly notice but it is good showmanship.If you stage your exhibits in the best way possible that is all you can do and it is a case of waiting on the judges verdict and hoping for red cards.
CULTIVARS
PEAS
By far the most popular cultivar for show work is "show perfection"[Shelley seeds or Medwyns].If you cant get this variety try "alderman"[Dobies].
RUNNER BEANS
Like most other exhibitors I grow the "Stenner "strain.To my knowledge the only supplier is Medwyns,but you sometimes see it advertised in gardening magazines.I got my original stock from a friend and I now save my own seeds.To do this I leave some pods on the plants at the end of the season until the beans are large enough.I then cut the pods and leave them in a box on top of a cupboard to dry off.I don,t remove the seeds from the pods until they are completely dry.
Other exhibition cultivars which are more readily available are"Enorma"[Dobies,Browns,Marshalls and Suttons]and "Lady Di"[Browns,Suttons and Thompson and Morgans]
BROAD BEANS
Exhibition cultivars readily available are"Imperial green longpod"[Browns,Dobies and Thompson and Morgans]and "Masterpiece green longpod"[Suttons ,Unwins]
FRENCH BEANS
The cutivar I and most other exhibitors grow is "The Prince"[Browns,Suttons,Marshalls and Thompson and Morgan]
It is a flat podded cultivar.I have never seen round podded ,purple or mottled varieties win much on the show bench.
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Post by wildlifefriendly on Jan 22, 2011 14:27:27 GMT
No 4 POTATOES
This is the fourth article in a series intended to help newcomers to the show bench.
The articles are not only about showing but they give beginners the basic knowledge to grow vegetables to a high standard.
PREPARING THE GROUND
For those who missed the first article in this series I would say that I grow most of my vegetables on a 4 year crop rotation.Potatoes are grown on their own because they prefer a lower pH than other crops[about 5-6].No lime therefore should be added to the potato plot because this will raise the pH.A high pH also encourages the fungal disease scab.Potatoes infected by scab which only affects the skin can be used in the kitchen but they are no use on the show bench.
The plot is dug over in the winter and I incorporate as much manure as I can spare.Just before plantinga dressing of 4 oz per square yard[100 grams per square metre]of general fertiluser such as growmore or fish,blood and bone is raked in unless the soil test tells me otherwise.
BUYING AND CHITTING THE "SEED"
It is important that you buy your potatoes from a reliable supplier.They will have been grown specially for planting and be free from virus.Most garden centres have a reasonable selection and several seed merchants supply them.Many horticultural societies also sell them to their members.
Buy them as soon as they are available,usually in January.You need to start them into growth byby standing them in shallow trays or egg boxes with the end with most eyes around it uppermost.This is called "chitting"The trays should be put in a light ,frost free place.I put them on the top shelf in the greenhouse or on the windowsill in the spare bedroom.
PLANTING OUT
I usually plant mine towards the end of April.By this time there should be several short sturdy shoots on each tuber.I think that for exhibition purposes these shoots should be reduced to 3 or 4.The more shoots you have the more potatoes you get but the smaller they will be.
The tubers are planted one foot apart[300mm.]in rows 2 feet[600 mm ]apart .I take out a trench a spades depth and put a layer of lawn mowings in the bottomand place the potatoes on top.This helps to keep the skins clean.When filling in the trenches add as much organic matter as you can -old potting compost or growbag compost before putting back the soil.Don,t use mushroom compost because this contains lime.I also scatter slug pellets along the trenches.
GROWING IN BUCKETS AND POLYTHENE BAGS
The reason for adding so much organic matter is that it improves the texture of the skin.One method of growing them in entirely organic matter is to grow them in tubs,buckets or polythene bags.I find that the skins are definately smoother using this method.I have some 5 gallon[23 litre]plastic buckets but if you have no large buckets, polythene bags[made from thick black polythene]can be used.I usually make my own compost to fill the buckets by using old potting compost and adding 12 oz.per bushel[8 gals]of vitax Q4.On potato is planted in each bucket.Leave about 6 inches from the top for adding more compost later.
GROWING ON
Within a few weeks the shoots will be seen pushing through the soil or compost.As they grow it is usual to draw the soil round the shoots to support them and ensure that the potatoes do not go green.If growing in buchets,add more compost.
The next thing we have to worry about is potato blight.This is the most serious potato disease.It starts as brown patches on the leaves in damp weather.If it is not contoled it spreads down the stems and infects the tubers.If this happens it is difficult to control so prevention is better than cure.For many years I grew my potatoes in someone elses garden and never saw the disease at all.When I lost this garden I got an allotment and the first year the disease struck while I was on holiday in July.Imagine my shock when I returned to find the leaves all going brown.Now I spray with copper fungicide or dithane 945 in June and again in July and this usually does the trick.
It is important to keep the ground watered in dry weatherand I give 2 or 3 feeds with maxicrop during the growing season.I also remove the flowers as I want the energy of the plant to go to develop the tubers and not flowers and fruit.I occasionally sprinkle more slug pellets between the plants.
HARVESTING
I normally enter my first show in the third week in August.I cut down the haulms and dig them up about a week before the show.This gives time for the skins to harden their skins.This makes them easier to wash without damaging them.
Lift them with a forktrying to get right under the plant so that all the potatoes are lifted at once.Putting the fork in too near the plant increases the chance of piercing the best tubers.I always manage to pierce some in spite of being careful.You need to dig enough up to get a matching set for the show.Some people dig fresh potatoes for each show and this is probably the best way.However I dont grow enough to do this so I dig them all up at once in order to have as many as possible to choose from when matching them into sets.
When they are all dug up I dig the ground over again because I always miss some
When they are all harvested I sort out the potential show specimens and put them in a bucket of water and carefully wash them with a soft sponge and dry with a towel.It is important to get rid of any soil from the eyes.It is also important not to expose the tubers to light any longer than necessary or they will turn green making them usless for showing.If you cant sort them immediately keep them in the dark.
SORTING AND STAGING
Points are awarded for condition,size,shape,eyes and uniformity.Size does not mean"the bigger the bettr".The recommended size is about6 oz.[170 grams]and that is a medium sized tuber.Uniformity refers to colour and shape as well as size.The judge will be looking for a uniform set of medium sized,shapely,clear skinned tubers with eyes few and shallow.
The number of tubers required for an exhibitis usually 4 or 5.When selecting a matching set I put them all on the kitchen table.Any that are damaged in any way,have rough skins or deep eyes ,a bad shape,too big or too small are used in the kitchen[keeps the wife happy!]
Some shows have a class for the "heaviest potato".It is only weight that counts in this case so it doesn,t matter about the other qualities.If you have one that may qualify it is worth keeping.
When the sets have been selected,each potato is wrapped in kitchen paper and each set is wrapped in aluminium foil to exclude light.As an added precaution I put the sets in boxes and keedp them in a dark place until the show.I take them to the show in these boxes.Once I reach the show I put the potatoes on a white plate with the eyes pointing outwards and put a card in front with the name of the cultivar.Some shows insist that cultivars are named and I was once disqualified for forgetting to do this.It is a good idea to place a sheet of foil or paper over the exhibit till just before judging,then disappear while the judge is at work and just hope you get the red card.
AFTER THE SHOW
It is better if you can dig fresh tubers for each show but I have to make the same tubers last all season.When I bring them home I wrap them up as before and keep them in the darkuntil the next show.I then have to examine and sort them out again because the number required for an exhibit may not be the same.Kept cool and dark the same tubers last all season.
CULTIVARS
Not every cultivar of potato is suitable for exhibition but there are a few "bankers"that are seen time and time agaun.Potatoes are classed as first earlies,second earlies and main crops.Most of those used for showing are first or second earlies.They are also classified as white or coloured,Coloured cultivars are sometimes uniformly pink like "desiree" or "maxine".Sometimes it is only the eyes that are coloured as in "cara"or "kestrel".If there is any colour round the eyes the cultivar is classified as "coloured"for show purposes.Nearly all shows have seperate classes for white and coloured.Some shows have a class for 2 plates,one white and coloured or for dishes of different cultivars.
Because I have limited space I only grow 3 cultivars.My 3 "bankers"are Winston[white],Maxine and Kestrel[both coloured.Other ones I have had success with in the past are Nadine and Pentland javelin[both white] and Desiree and Vanessa[both coloured].Desiree is prone to scab disease so it is better grown in buckets of compost.
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Post by wildlifefriendly on Jan 22, 2011 14:28:20 GMT
No 5 ROOT CROPS
This is the fifth article in a series intended to help newcomers to the show bench.The last article was about potatoes and now we are thinking of the other root crops-carrots,parsnips,beetroot turnips,swedes and kohl rabi.Carrots are divided into "long" and "other than long"[sometimes called "stump rooted".Beetroot are either "globe" or "long".
PREARING THE GROUND
Carrots,parsnips and long beet are more often grown above ground either in tubes or drums filled with specially prepared compost but the rest are grown in the ground.Those that I grow in the ground go in a bed of their own in a four year crop rotation.The pH should be about 7[ie.neutral]and this bed gets no manure.It will have had manure dug in for the previous 3 years for other crops.General fertiliser-fish blood and bone or growmore is raked in about 3 or4 oz.per square yarda few weeks before sowing.It is important to rake the soil as fine as possible removing any stones that will spoil the shape of the roots.
TURNIPS,SWEDES,GLOBE BEET AND KOHL RABI
I have grouped these together because the way they are grown is similar.
SOWING AND SPACING
All 4 are sown thinly in drills abot half an inch deep and thinned out in stages.The only difference is the timing and spacing.Swedes require about 20 weeks from sowing to harvesting and the others about 12 weeks.These times are only a rough guide for much depends on the season.You will have to use you callendar and work back from your show date.Depending on how much room you have it is a good idea to make 2 sowings 3 weeks or so apart to cover differences in the seasons and perhaps more than one show.
swedes need rather more space than the other three.The drills need to be about 15 inches apart.The others will be happy with 12 inches.The final spacing for swedes needs to be about 9 inches whereas 6 inches will do for the others.When thinning out it is not worth replanting the seedlings somewhere else.With some varieties of beetroot particularly the older ones several seeds are clustered together .Pelleted seed is available which makes sowing easier.Other cultivars known as "monogerm"produce a single seed.
GROWING ON
Normally I do not give any additional feeds as the plants are growing-what was applied before sowing being sufficient.Because beetroot are of maritime origin they benefit from an application of salt A teaspoon in a watering can is all that is needed..Too much will not do the soil any good.Beetroot also benefit by having the soil drawn over them as they grow as the top becomes "corky" if exposed.It is better to hand weed between the rows rather than risk damaging them with a hoe.It is also important to keep all 4 crops watered in dry weather..This helps to prevent bolting in beetroot[running to seed] or grow the cultivar "boltardy"which is resistant to this.
PESTS AND DISEASES
There is not much to worry about with these crops as regards pests and diseases.The most common pests are flea beetlesThey attack all members of the brassica family of which these are members except for beetroot.The damage is seen as small holes in the leaves but they are not usually present in large enough numbers to do much damage.There is a leaf mining maggot that can attack betroot and swedes sometimes get mildew but these are not common problems.The swede "marian"is resistant to mildew.Turnips,swedes and kohl rabi can get clubroot but only if the pH is too low.[not below 7]
HARVESTING
With all these crops you can see potential show specimens without digging them up.Just harvest as many as you nee for the show with a few extras to help you match them up.It is best to lift them carefully with a fork rather that just pulling them up because there should be a tap root which you don,t want to break.There is not a class for kohl rabi at any show that I go to but turnips and swedes are in them all.The rules usually ask for leaves to be trimmed to 3 inches.Check this first and if this is the case you can trim them as soon as they are lifted.I have known shows which require the leaves to be left on beetroot so make sure you read the schedule.Wash the roots carefully with a sponge and leave your prize specimens in a damp towel till sorting.
CARROTS,PARSNIPS AND LONG BEET
Stump carrots can ony be grown direct in the ground if the soil is very fine,sandy and free from stones.Very few of us have this kind of soil so all carrots,parsnips and long beet are normally grown in specially made compost.There are 2 ways of doing this-growing in bore holes filled with special compost or growing in buckets or drums.I have used both methods but top exhibitors normally favour the latter method.
Growing in boreholes.
You will need a crowbar or brush handle at least 4 feet long.Push or hammer it into the groundas far as you canand by moving the top about make a hole 3 or4 inches accross the top and tapering to the bottom ie.the shape of a carrot.Space the bore holes about 6 inches apart and try to make the of equal size.It is important to fill each hole with compost before making the next oneor they may collapse.Make sure there are no air spaces by filling the holes in 2 or 3 stages and firming each one with a stick or cane.Stump carrots grown in this way only need a hole about 18 inches deep.
Growing above ground
buckets
I fill large buckets with compost for stump carrots.They hold betwwen 4 and 7 depending on the size of the bucket.
Tubes or pipes
One method of growing long roots is to use tubes or pipes.You may be able to get drain pipes from a builders merchant that you can cut into 4 foot lengths.They can be half buried in the soilto keep them upright and arranged in rows.The centres of the pipes can be about 6 inches apart .They can be made of metal or plastic.I dont have any tubes like this.I make my own using builders damp proof material tied round with waterproof string.I stand these tubes in large buckets and tie string round them to keep them upright.
The next method is to use large drums.Each specimen needs to be about 6 inches apart ,the size of the drum determining how many it will hold.
Another method I have tried is to use growbags stood on end.I have some square plastic drums which hold2 growbags.They have to be supported with canes at each corner and string tied round to keep them upright.Two are grown in each bag.`
COMPOST
We now have to think about compost to fill the pipes or drums.People have their own mixtures for this.You can buy ready made potting compost but it is cheaper to make your own.The cheapest mixtures are ones that contain soil.One mixture I have used is 2 parts soil,1part peat and one part sharp sand.I add 8 oz Q4 base per bushel[8 gals].The soil and peat must be sieved..If you do not wish to use soil another alternative is 3 parts sieved peat and 1 part sand with the same fertiliser.What I normally do is to use old compost.I grow a lot of pot plants and every Feruary I take them out of their pots ,scrape the compost from their roots and re-pot in fresh compost.I re-use this compost for vegetables.For carrots I sieve it and then rejuvenate it by adding 8 oz Q4 per bushel.I use this compost for potatoes as well but add 12 oz Q4 per bushel.I dont usually have enough of this compost so I have to make some from scratch [see above]but I dont normally use soil.
SOWING
All these seeds are sown in "stations"3 or 4 seeds per station.If they all germinate the seedlings are reduced to one per station.Parsnip seed is well known for being short lived so buy fresh each year.Also it takes longer to germinate.A rough guide about when to sow-stump carrots and long beet take about 4 months,long carrots about four and a half months and parsnips about five.You will have to count back from your show date and times are only approximate as a lot depends on the weather.As parsnips need to be sown early I grow them in tubes and start them in the greenhouse then I can lift the containers outside later.
GROWING ON
It is important to keep your crops watered in dry weather.Roots can split if watering is neglected and then we get a downpour of rain.All the feeding required is perhaps two applications of maxicrop during the season.Carrot tops turn green if exposed to light which makes them useless for showing so earth compost over them .Stump carrots tend to push themselves out of the compost so keep them covered with fresh compost.
PESTS AND DISEASES
The main didease we need to consider is parsnip canker.I have never had this problem but I believe it can be caused by low pH ,fresh manure or damage.If you follow the instructions for soil preparation above the first two should not occur.You need to be careful not to damage the roots when weeding.The cultivar "Avon resistor" is resistant to canker.There are two pests we need to consider.The most common is carrot fly.The adult lays its eggs in the soil and when they hatch the grubs tunnel into the roots.The symptoms are reddening of the foliage which wilts in dry weather and eventually turns yellow.The adult detects the carrots by smell so don,t leave thinnings lying about.The female flies close to the ground so growing in pipes or tubes should keep them away.If they are growing in the ground the best way to keep the fly away is to erect a physical barrier round them ie.a temporary fence two feet high of plastic or fine mesh or cover them with fleece.The other pest is carrot willow aphid.Keep your eye open and spray with a suitable insecticide when found.
HARVESTING
It is important to get long roots out without breaking thembut it is not easy.Tubes made with damp proof material or growbags are the easiest for they can be opened to get out the prize specimens.If the roots are in the ground or rigid tubes the best way is to soak the compost till it is like mud.If you then lift with an even pull they should come out in one piece.Wash the roots carefully in a large bucketusing a soft cloth taking care not to break the tap root then wrap them in a wet towel.
SORTING AND STAGING
It is now time to think about what qualities the judge will be looking for.These qualities are-size,shape,condition,colour and uniformity.Turnips should be about cricket ball size,globe beet about tennis ball size.Size doesn,t mean the biggest are the best.The definition of size with regard to carrots is"according to variety"and kohl rabi need to be about 2 or 3 inches in diameter.All should be fresh,free from damage,with smooth skins and the correct shape.Stump carrots should have a definite "stump"end and not uniformly tapered as in the long cultivars and have a short tail[tap root].Globe beet,turnips and swedes should have a small tap root and no side roots and be a uniform,good colour.If side roots are only small they can be cut off without being noticed too much.Carrots should have no side roots and be a uniform good colour.Beet root should be the same colour throughout.This of course can only be examined by cutting ,The judge will cut a slice out to see if the colour is uniform.Bearing all these points in mind we need to match the roots into sets that are as uniform as possible.Check the schedule to see how many are requiredfor an exhibit[it is normally three].Don,t forget to check if the foliage should be cut .Carry them to the show in boxes wrapped in damp cloth.Long carrots and parsnips will need special care.When you arrive at the show the stump carrots,beetroot and turnips can be put on plates but this is not essential.Long carrots and parsnips look good on a black cloth as that enhances the colour,Always put the base of the exhibits facing the judge and the globe varieties in a triangle.
CULTIVARS
GLOBE BEET
Boltardy is a well known,tried and tested cultivar ,widely available and is the one I usually use.I have also had success with Kestrel[D,U and T][see abbreviations at the end]and Red ace[T,Me and R]A popular monogerm cultivar is Moneta[D and S]
LONG BEET
The most widely available cultivar is Cylindra[D,S,U and Ma]
STUMP CARROTS
The cultivar doing most of the winning at present is Sweet Candle[Me and Sh].Chanteney red cored is very reliable and widely available .I also use Bangor[S,T and Sh]and Heracles[Ma and Sh]
LONG CARROTS
There are two outstanding cultivars here and I have used both-New red intermediate[S,Me and Sh]and St valery[D,S.and R]
PARSNIPS
There are several good cultivars here- Gladiator[most suppliers]Javelin[T,Me and Sh],Archer[Ma,Me and Sh]and Albion[D,S,U,Me and
Sh]
KOHL RABI
The one I usually grow is Lanro[D,S,and U]It does well for me and I have no experience with any other cultivars so why change?
SWEDE
Marion[U,Ma,R and Sh]is the one I normally grow .It is rsistant to club root and very reliable.
TURNIP
Model white[D]Snowball[most suppliers]and Golden ball[D,S and Sh]are all well tried and reliable cultivars
Abbreviations
D=Dobies S=Suttons U=Unwins T=Thompson and Morgan Ma=Marshalls
Me=Medwyns R=Robinsons Sh=Shelleys.
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Post by wildlifefriendly on Jan 22, 2011 14:29:20 GMT
Number 6
ONIONS AND SHALLOTS
This is the sixth article in a series intended to help newcomers to the show bench.
Both bulb onions and shalots are divided into two sizes for show purposes.There is also a different classification for "green salad onions"
Onions are classified as "over 250 gms."(large) and "not over 250 gms.(small).There is a class for both sizes at most shows.In some shows In some cases the division is for "onions grown from seed" and "onions grown from sets"
Small shallots are classed as "pickling shallots"and the maximum diameter is 30 mm.Some shows still say a maximum of one inch which it used to be previously.There is not a class for pickling shallots at any show that I go to but if there is in yours ,you need to check what size is specified.You will be disqualified if the maximum size is exceeded.
GROUND PREPARATION
You require a good rich soil containing plenty of organic matter.I have always grown onions and shallots on the same bed and not included them in the four -year crop rotation as I do with other crops.
I used to dig a trench a spade deep ,fork over the bottom before putting in a thick layer of green material followed by a layer of soil,then a thick layer of manure and finally the rest of the soil.I don,t go to this trouble any more.I just single dig incorporating as much manure as I can.For both methods rake in general fertiliser a few weeks before planting.Since I stopped using the first method I have not noticed any difference in the quality or size of the crops.
ONIONS
Onions can be grown from either seed or sets.Sets are small onions about half an inch(12 mm.)in diameter that can be planted directly in the ground or in pots.As there are classes for large and small onions these can be grown from seed using different cultivars which I will mention later.Lack of space has meant that I have never grown from seed any of the cultivars normally used for the small onion classes.Because some shows have a class for onions grown from setsI have grown these and used them in shows which have a class for small onions.I can use the same onions in all the shows no matter how the class is worded,wheher it says "grown from sets"or not.
GROWING FROM SEED
It is customary to sow onions around Christmas time.If you need an excuse to get out of the washing up on Christmas day this is it.I never do any gardening on Christmas day itself but I do sow them around this time.The seeds need some heat for germination so they need to go in a propagator or on the kitchen window sill.I space the seeds out about one inch (25 mm.)apart on a seed tray of multipurpose compost and cover with a layer of the same material.When the seedlings reach what we call the "crook stage"(when they have emerged but the leaf has not yet straightened)they are transplanted into cell trays or small pots.I use drinking cups from vending machines.
The seedlings still need warmth so keep them in the greenhouse on a soil warming bench. If you don,t have a soil warming bench to give the seedlings the warmth they need in the early stages all is not lost.You may know a local grower who has plants to spare or you can buy them in.Suppliers of such plants advertise in the gardening press.When the plants are large enough and the roots have filled the small pots they need potting into 4 or 5 inch (100 or 125mm.)pots.Any good potting compost will do for these two moves.The plants will also need taking off the heating bench,given cooler conditions and finally hardened offin a cold frame during April for planting out in early May.The large onions need more room and should br planted 12 to 15 inches(300 to 425 mm.)apart.Small onions can be planted 9 inches(225 mm.)apart
GROWING FROM SETS
Onion sets can be planted direct into the ground about 9 inches(225 mm.)apart towards the end of April and pushed into the prepared soil so that the tops are just showing.I prefer to start them earlier in 3 inch(75 mm.)potsin the greenhouse,harden them off and plant them out as I do with seedlings.
GROWING ON
Onions are not particularly susceptible to any pests.There is onion fly whose maggots tunnel into the bulbs but I have never been troubled with this so it is not common.White rot is a serious disease but thankfully I have not been troubled with this either and I don,t think there is any cure.If you get white rot you would have to change the site and not grow onions there for several years.Occasionally in wet seasons onions can get mildew or botrytis(grey mould) but spraying with Dithane 945 helps to control it.It is a good idea to spray as a prevention rather than wait till it arrives.
There is a difference of opinion with regard to feeding.Some people do not feed at all and rely on the food applied before planting.Feeding with high nitrogen fertiliser too late in the season could cause onions to go soft.I give 2 or 3 nitrogen feeds up to early July to help the bulbs swell and then change to phostrogen until lifting.This has a high potash content which helps ripening.For the nitrogenous feeds I use nitrochalk or nitrate of soda sprinkled round the plants and watered in.A lot depends on the bulbs themselves.If I think the bulbs are large enough I may start with phostrogen earlier.If they are not growing well I may take a chance and carry on longer with nitrogen but still give some phostrogen feeds but that will mean later lifting.The other summer task is watering.It is important to water often in dry weather.
HARVESTING
Large onions are not usually large enough to harvest till August.We are not after world beaters as regards weight for show purposes.I think that between two and three pounds (900 and 1360 gms.)is large enough or between 4 and 5 inches (100 -125 mm.)in diameter.If they are any bigger than this the quality may suffer.It is also more difficult to match them up.Harvest them by lifting with a fork being careful not to damage them.They do mot need to be harvested all at once but when each bulb gets to the required size.Wash them in a bucket of waterand dry with a towel.Then cut off the roots and cut the foliage down to about 3 inches(75 mm.)Any broken skins must be removed but don,t take more off than you need.They are then dusted with talcum powder that helps with the drying process and imparts a lovely light brown colour which judges like.Then stand them in trays of sawdust.I keep mine on a table in the shed.They can be put on a shelf in the greenhouse for a week or so but don,t leave them any longer or they will get too hot and the skins may crack.If the show is in mid August they will probably be still green and not fully ripe.They would have to be shown like this but all the other entries will probably be the same.Small onions are treated the same way but they can be harvested earlier in July when they are the right size.Don,t forget that they will be disqualified if they are above the required weight.You will get to know the right size by experience but they should be round about two and a half inches (65 mm.) across.The best thing to do is to dig a few up and measure them ,then weigh them bearing in mind that they will lose a little weight while drying.You have more time to get these onions ripe for August than the large ones.
SORTING AND STAGING
The judge is looking for firm,thin necked bulbs with an even colour ,of the appropriate size and an even set.Whether they need to be ripe depends on the timr of year.Discard any that are not firm,of an uneven colour, have thick necks or are damaged in any way.The number of large onions required is normally three at local showsbut in the case of small onions it may be three or five or occasionally six.You need a matching set as regards size,shape and colour.It is usual to cut the tops down to an inch(25 mm.) and tie with raffia which finishes them off nicely.Wipe off any traces of talcum powder.When transporting them to the show I pach them in boxes with folds of newspaper round each bulb to prevent them from bruising.
When at the show stand them on rings You can make them yourself by cutting lengths of tube.I use curtain rings for the large onions and milk bottle tops for the small ones.
SHALLOTS
Traditionally shallots are planted on the shortest day(Dec 21st)and harvested on the longest day(June 21st)You don,t have to strictly adhere to these dates but they are a rough guide.There are cultivars that are grown from seed but exhibition shallots are invariably grown by planting bilbs.You will have to buy these to start with unless you know someone who has got some to spare.
The ground is seldom fit for planting in December so I start mine off in three and a half inch(85 mm.)pots in a cold greenhouse.They don,t need artificial heat as onions do.They start to grow in a few weeks and eventually need to go into five inch(125 mm.)pots.Any good potting compost is suitable.They are planted out in spring as soon as the ground is workable,about 9 inches(225 mm.)apart.
GROWING ON
The bulbs now begin to divide into clumps of several bulbs.If pickling shallots are required some of the clumps can be allowed to grow naturally and harvested before they get too big.I only grow the large shallots so I reduce each clump to three bulbs.Normally I do not give them any supplementary feeding.I don,t find they are particularly susceptible to any disease or pests so I don,t see any need to spray.
HARVESTING
One problem with shallots that can cause them to be mis-sha**** when the tops stop growing and the bulbs begin to divide again.It is important that they are harvested before this begins to happen..The trouble with mis-shapen bulbscan occur if they are left too long to achieve extra size.Sometimes they can go out of shape after harvesting.
After harvesting the shallots are separated and the outer skin removed as with onions.The tops are cut down to an inch(25 mm.)and the roots trimmed.I then stand them on trays of sawdust or dry sand.I find it is better not to put them in the greenhousebecause the skins tend to split.I stand them in a dark shed and they keep for months.
SORTING AND STAGING
The judge is looking for a matching set of firm,well ripened bulbsof good size and colour.Make sure they are solid underneath,not just round the neck,and are uniformly brown in colour and perfectly round.When you have selected your set tie the tops with raffia.If they are pickjing shallots remember that they mustn,t be over size.They are usually staged on saucers of dry sand.They can be staged at home and taken to the show.
AFTER THE SHOW
Apart from potatoes,onions and shallots are the only vegetables that can be kept to show again.They need to be wrapped as carefully for the journey home to avoid damaging them.Even if you don,t want to show the shallots again you still need to bring them home to plant again for the following season.
CULTIVARS
LARGE ONIONS
By far the most popular cultivar is "Kelsae"(Shelleys,Mr Fothergill,Browns and Medwyns)
Robinson,s mammoth is also good.
Also look at advertisements in the gardening press.Many top exhibitors have their own strain of seed which they advertise for sale.
SMALL ONIONS FROM SEED
Two good cultivars for this class are "Globo"(Dobies,Suttons and Medwyns)and "Marco"(Thompson and Morgan,Shelleys,Marshalls and Medwyns)
Medwyn Williams also has two other cultivars that he recomends("Canto"and "Vento")
ONIONS FROM SETS
Many cultivars to try but I grow "Fen globe" or "Fen early"from Marshalls both of which I find reliable.
SHALLOTS
The cultivar that practically all exhibitors grow is "Hative de Niort"(Dobies, Suttons and Robinsons).
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Post by wildlifefriendly on Jan 22, 2011 14:30:11 GMT
NO.7 LEEKS AND CELERY By Derek Brooks,Worsley,Manchester.
This is the seventh article in a series intended to help the newcomers to the show bench.
CLASSIFICATION
Leeks are subdivided by the Royal Horticultural Society into three sizes for show purposes
1]Blanch.More than 14 inches(350 mm)from base to button.The button is the point where the flags(leaves)break away from the barrel,or stem.
2}Intermediate.Not less than 6 inches(150mm)and not more than 14 inches(350 mm)from base to button.
3}Pot.Not more than 6 inches(150 mm.)from base to button.
The N.V.S.judges guide categorises leeks into 2 types.Blanch and intermediate in one and pot in the other.
Celery is divided into two categories by both societies
1}Blanched(or trench)
2}Self blanching or American green
In most shows I go to there is only one class for leeks and one for celery.In this case tou can exhibit any kind but you must bear in mind that the different types of celery carry different points if exhibited in collection classes.
GROUND PREPARATION
I hae always grown leeks in the same bed as onions and shallots.They require a good rich soil containing plenty of organic matter.I used to trench the ground but now I only single dig it but incorporate as much manure as I can spare ,then rake in general fertiliser a few weeks before planting.Trenching is hard work and the crops were no better than they are at present.
One of my problems is shortage of room and I have never had enough room for a seperate bed for celery.I put them anywhere there is room,either in the onion and leek bed or the same bed as peas and beans because their soil requirements are similar.
LEEKS
Getting your plants.
Leeks can be grown from seed but the vast majority of show leeks are grown from bulbils,pips or grass.I have never done this myself so I have always bought in my plants.You may know a local grower who supplies plants.If not look in the gardening press for adverts.Many of the top growers have their own stocks which they advertise for sale.The plants are potted into small pots and kept in the grenhouse on a propagating bench for a while.They are kept upright by using a small cane and twine tied round to support the leaves.When they have outgrown their small pots they are potted into 4 or5 inch (100 or 125 mm)pots.They are taken off the propagating bench but still kept in the greenhouse till April.They are then put in a cold frame to harden off before planting out in May 14 inches(350 mm)apart.
Growing on.
As the name suggests blanch leeks are artificially blanched to whiten the stems.I make collars using black builders dampproof material.For blanch leeks I have collars cut into 2 different sizes 6 by 9 inches(150 by 230 mm)and 12 by 15 inches(300 by 380 mm).The first collar is usually put on before planting out but it is important not to put in on too early or the leeks will grow spindly and never thicken up enough.The collar is just wrapped round the leek and tied with string and attached to a cane to support the plant.When the plant has grown too big for the 6 inch collar it is removed and turned round so that it is now 9 inches tall.Later on the next collar is put on at 12 inches and later still at 15 inches.The plant will now need a longer cane than it did originally.Blanch up to but not beyond the button.
Slugs can be a nuisance with leeks so it pays to scatter slug pellets round the plants every time you remove the collar.Look for slugs that have got inside and remove any split flags.Sometimes I have trouble with leeks splitting.I put this down to allowing the bed to dry out .The bed must be kept moist at all times even in a heatwave.Another problem I have had is leek rust.One year the plants were covered in it but I now keep it in check by spraying early and at fortnightly intervals with a suitable fungicide.
As regards feeding I normally feed as I do for onions.
Harvesting.
One other job to do when removing the collars is to note the size of the leeks to see which are likely to be ready for the show.It is a good idea if you have time to number the leeks and make a note in a book of the sizes of all the leeks.It will save a lot of time the day before the show.If for example you need 3 for an entry at the show you only need to remove the collars from 4 or 5 .You then need to examine them to make sure they are solid and undamaged and dig up the 3 that are the most uniform.Those not used are re-collared for future use.
The chosen leeks then need to be washed in a bath or using a hosepipe removing any broken or damaged flags.Don,t remove more than necessary because the judge can tell and will downpoint you.The flags look better if they are tied together at the top.Take them to the show wrapped in a damp white cloth or towel.
Staging.
What we need are leeks that are thick and solid and well blanched with clean white skins and showing no signs of bulbing at the base.The number required is usually 2 or 3 at local shows.In the case of pot leeks and intermediate leeks the sizes the length of the stem from base to button must be within the measurements quoted above.Arrange them side by side on the bench with the flags at the top if there is room.Usually though the bench is not deep enough so the flags have to be hanging over the bench or folded over underneath the leeks.
CELERY
Celery is grown from seed-the smallest of all vegetable seeds.As the seed is too small to be spaced out it is sowed broadcast but as thinly as possible on a tray of multipurpose compost.The tray is given a good watering before sowing and do not cover the seeds-just press them into the compost.The seeds need heat for germination so they go into a propagator or on a heated bench.Thay take about 2 weeks to germinate and when they are large enough to handle they are transfered to small pots.I use drinking cups from vending machines or yoghurt cups.
Another alternative is to sow the seeds into cell trays ,just a few in each cell and reduced to one when they germinate.The time of sowing depends on the date of your show.A sowing in early February will give you plants in August.If your show is in September you don,t need to sow till late February or March.If you want to show at more than one show it pays to make more than one sowing ,say a month apart.
When the plants are too big for the small pots they are potted on into 4 or 5 inch (100 or 125 mm)pots.In April the plants are hardened off in a cold frame and planted out 18 inches(450 mm)apart when danger of frost is passed.
Growing on.
The most important thing to remember when growing celery is that in the wild they are bog plants and therefore need a lot of water.Another thing is that they are among slugs favourite meals,Slug pellets need to be sprinkled round the plants and renewed when necessary.As regards feeding I usually give 2 or 3 feeds of maxicrop in May and June and a feed of plostrogen in July bevause this has a higher potash content to harden the growth.
Celery is blanched in a similar way to leeks starting about 2 months before the shows.I start off with 9 inch collars (230mm)and finish up with 15 inch(380 mm)As with leeks the collars are made of builders dampproof material but it is important not to wrap them as tight as for leeks.I also think it is a good idea to wrap corrugated paper underneath the dampproof.This is to prevent the plants from sweating.Some exhibitors only use corrugated paper.One job to do when the collars are removed is to look for slugs that have got inside and remove suckers from the base of the plants.Also remove broken or damaged sticks.
One problem that I have not had myself but have read about is heart rot and I understand that it can be devastating.I think it can be caused by over feeding with nitrogen which softens growth which is why I have suggested high potash feeding near the end of the growth .Also what I have suggested about preventing the plants from sweating should help to prevent this problem.Medwyn Williams recommends watering the plants with 2%calcium nitrate solution ,trickling the solution into the foliags and into the heart of the plants.He says that the calcium hardens the tissues of the plants thus preventing heart rot.I intend using this as a precaution in future even though I have never had this problem.
Harvesting
It is advisable to leave the celery as near as possible to the show before harvesting because it can go limp if left too long.You will need to lift them with a fork pushed right underneath the plants.They have quite a large root system which is normally cut into a wedge shape.The plants need washing thoroughly paying attention to between the sticks.Remove any sticks that are damaged and hope there are not too many!!
Selection and staging
What we need are large ,firm,undamaged heads free from heart rot or flower stems and fully blanched.Usually the number required is two so they need to be well matched.It is important that the heads are kept moist so they remain fresh when placed on the show bench.Transport them to the show wrapped in damp towels and leave them till the last minute brfore staging.
Cultivars
Leeks
I have always bought plants from a specialist supplier.
Celery
Self blanching cultivars,though vert useful and easy to grow are seldom if ever grown for the show bench.Those grown for exhibition are neary always trench cultivars."Ideal"was the standard cultivar for many years but has now been superseeded by more modern ones such as "morning star","evening star"and "red star" supplied by Medwyn,s as seeds or plants.
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Post by wildlifefriendly on Jan 22, 2011 14:30:59 GMT
No 8 TOMATOES AND CUCUMBERS
This is the eighth article in a series of eleven intended to help beginners on the show bench.The editor of the N.V.S.bulletin where they appear has made the comment that" the growing techniques described are suitable for any grower who wants to grow good quality produce whether he or she is interested in exhibiting or not".
Both tomatoes and cucumbers can be grown outdoors in a sheltered position if the right cultivars are chosen.However for show purposes the best results are obtained by growing in a greenhouse or polytunnel.A few shows do have classes which specify"outdoor grown"and "those grown under protection"
SOWING
I sow both these crops in a heated propagator,the tomatoes in February and the cucumbers not until March.The temperature in the propagator should be about 65deg.F.If you do not have a propagator but your greenhouse is heated you can still sow but not so early.I sow tomato seed in a half tray of multipurpose compostspacing the seed about one inch (25 mm.)apart and just covering them with the same compost.When the seedlings are large enough i.e.the first true leaf is visible,they are trasfered to 3 inch(75 mm)pots.I use vending machine cups with holes made in the base which saves a fortune on pots especially as I give some away.
As cucumber seeds are larger I sow these directly into small pots,one seed in a 3 inch(75 mm.)pot or a drinking cup ,sown on edge to prevent rotting before germinationj.
When the seedlings of both emerge they are removed from the propagator but they still need to be kept about 50deg.F.It's no use sowing early unless you can provide these temperatures.If you don't have the facilities to grow your own plants you can of course buy them from a nursery or garden centre ready for planting in their final positions,in April but this does reduce the choice of varieties available.
GROWING ON
When the roots reach the bottom of their 3 inch pots they should be potted on into 4 or 5 inch(100 mm.or 125 mm.)pots using any good potting compost.The plants will still have to be kept in a warm greenhouse and given as much light as possible.We are looking for strong,well grown plants with short spaces between each leaf joint,not tall,spindly ,weak looking ,pale leaved specimens.
The two crops have been treated in the same way so far but now we must consider the different techniques of each.
TOMATOES
PLANTING OUT
There are several successful methods of growing tomatoes.If you have a greenhouse they can be planted directly into the greenhouse border.If you do this the soil needs forking over in the winter with plenty of well rotted manure or compost incorporated.This should be followed by a base dressing of general fertiliser raked in a few weeks before planting.You may be able to use this method for more than one year and still get good results but sooner or later pests and diseases can build up in the soil so it is better to use other methods.
One common alternative is to use growbags planting 2 plants in each bag.Another method is to grow each plant in a seperate 10 inch (275 mm.)pot.Yet another method is known as ring culture.This is where plants are grown in bottomless pots of compost placed on an aggregate of ashes or gravel.The roots grow through the bottom of the pot and into the aggregate.The idea is to feed into the pots and water into the aggregate.I have used all these methods over the years and now I favour a combination of growbags and ring culture.I stand 2 bottomless pots on top of a growbag and cut circles round the bottom of the pots and remove a circle of plastic for th pots to sit into,with a third circle in the centre of the growbagto fit a 5 inch (125 mm.)pot for watering.The bottomless pots are filled with potting compost (or compost from another growbag)and the plants set in these.
The timing of planting is critical.In a cold greenhouse (i.e.unheated)it is not wise to plant till the end of April or early May.Planting can take place earlier in April if heat can be provided.The condition of the plants is also important.They should be sturdy and have their first truss of flowers showing as breen buds.The trick is to balance the growth of the plants and the production of fruit on the bottom trusses to get maximum yields.If the plants are set out before the first truss is visible they will grow away too fast and the first truss will be poor.On the other hand if the first truss is too far advanced at the time of planting too much of the plant,s energy goes into the bottom truss and later growth is stunted.If you are buying plants shop around till you find plants at the right stage of growth.
SUMMER CARE
The plants at no stage must go short of water.If you are using the method described above with two bottomless pots on top of a growbag with a third for watering ,you need to water into the bottomless pots until the roots of the plants reach the growbag.Otherwise the plants will be short of water in their early stages.Watering should always be done in the morning.
Feeding should not be started until there are small fruits the size of a pea on the first truss.Earlier feeding will result in an upsurge in growth and the bottom truss will not set properly giving an effect similar to that of planting too early.There are fertilisers formulated for tomatoes which contain a high level of potash.Use one of these and follow the manufacturers instructions.I find maxicrop tomato special or phostrogen very good.
The plants need supporting as they grow either with canes or string.I have wires running along the top of the greenhouse .A string is looped loosely round the base of the plants and tied to the wire.The plants are then trained round the strings for support.The flowers set better if they are encouraged by tapping the string or artificially pollinated by transfering pollen from one flower to another with a small brush.
Most cultivars grown for exhibition are grown as cordons and are not bush cultivars.This means that they are grown as a single stem with all side shoots removed.Side shoots form in the leaf axils(the angle between the leaf and the stem)and they should be removed as soon as they are large enough to handle.
PESTS,DISEASES AND OTHER TROUBLES
Greenfly are sometimes a problem but any good insecticide can be used to control them.Occasionally the fruits are attacked by caterpillars .There are never very many of these so hand picking is the answer here.
The most troublesome pests in my opinion are whitefly.They increase rapidly and once they get established are difficult to control.Use a spray that is recommended for whitefly control and follow the manufacturers instructions.You must start soraying as soon as the pest is seen and continue at fortnightly intervals as the spray will not kill the eggs.Another remedy is to hang up sticky traps and shake the plants regularly to disturb the pests and hope they fly onto the traps.There is also a biological control ,the chalcid wasp(encarsia formosa)but these cannot be used as well as insecticides.
The most common disease in my opinion is grey mould(Botrytis cinaria).The solution is to remove any infected leaves or fruits to prevent the disease spreading and to increase ventilation.Systemic fungicides can be used which will also help to control ghost spot but are best used as a preventative and not a cure.Because tomatoes are in the same family as potatoes blight can be a problem in mild damp summers but is more a problem on outdoor crops.
Two other problems which are disorders ,not diseases are split fruits and blossom end rot.Split fruits are generally caused by irregular watering.Blossom end rot(a sunken black patch at the flower end of the fruit)is not actually caused by irregular watering normally appears after irregular watering.It is caused by a deficiency of calcium in the fruit and is more prevelant in container grown plants as nutrients are either washed out by constant watering or taken up by the plants and not replaced.So both conditions can be prevented by good husbandry and ensuring that the plants do not get dry at any time..When watering,never let the water splash onto the fruits as this can cause ghost spotting mentioned above,unsightly and unwanted both on the table and the show bench,but the fruits are edible.
HARVESTING AND STAGING
Unless otherwise specified the judge will be looking for medium sized fruits of good round shape,ripe but firm and of good colour and they should have fresh calyces attached.Snap the likely prizewinners from the plants making sure the calyces remain attached.The freshness of the calyx is a good indication as to how fresh the fruit is.If the calyx is dry and withered it indicates that the fruit was picked a few days ago and may even have been to another show.The usual number required for a dish is either five or six so make sure you have read the schedule.
They need to be well matched in size,shape and colour.Take them to the show in a box lined with tissue paper with each fruit individually wrapped to prevent bruising.Stage them on a plate with the calyces upwards pointing at the judge.
At some shows there are specific classes for cherry and beefsteak tomatoes.Pay particular attention to the size limits for these and the number required which is not usually the same as for the medium sized fruits.Some shows have a class for a complete truss of tomatoes.In this case there should be a minimum of six or seven tomatoes with as many ripe as possible but not over ripe.
CUCUMBERS
Cucumbers can be grown by any of the methods described for tomatoes but I grow mine in 10 inch (250 mm.)pots.Planting time is not as critical as for tomatoesbut they are best set out in May when the roots have filled a 5 inch(125 mm.)pot.If you read most books they will tell you not to put tomatoes and cucumbers in the same greenhouse.This is because cucumbers prefer a warmer and more humid atmosphere.However,how many people starting to grow for show have two greenhouses? I have never been able to plant them in different greenhouses all the time I have been showing.If you have only one greenhouse I think the best compromise is to have the cucumbers at the far end,away from the door,and the tomatoes nearer the door.An alternative,if you can arrange it is to have two seperate growing areas by erecting a partition.
SUMMER CARE
I think the best way to train the plants is to fasten them to a cane set at an angle.This allows the fruit to hang free without any obstruction as they form preventing any marks or scratches on the young fruits.Any marks on a small fruit will expand as the fruit grows.Any obstruction may also cause the fruit to bend.
Watering needs to be done with care.The plants must never go short but too much may cause foot rot.
The same fertilisers mentioned for tomatoes are also suitable for cucumbers.
Some cultivars ,usually open pollinated cultivars as opposed to
F1 hybrids have both male and female flowers on the same plants while some are all female.If you are growing the first type the male flowers must be removed so that they do not pollinate the females.Occasionally,a male flower appears on an "all female"variety and if this happens it must be removed.Female flowers always have small fruits behind them and these develop without being pollinated.The fruits that develop from pollinated flowers are bitter tasting and often swollen at the end away from the stalk.Tomatoes,of course,must be pollinated,as described earlier.The fruits need about two weeks from one inch to harvesting size.
PESTS AND DISEASES
Cucumbers are troubled by much the same pests and diseases as tomatoes.Whitefly are a particular problem so take steps to control them as described for tomatoes.Red spider mite is more of a problem than it is with tomatoes but can be controlled by ensuring that there is high humidity in the greenhouse.If necessary use an insecticide taking care to spray under the leaves.There is also a biological contrl named Phytoseulis persimilis.
One thing that sometimes happens with cucumbers is that the plants just collapse and die.It is caused by a fungal infection at the base of the stem and if it happens there is nothing you can do only pull up the plant and dispose of it.To prevent it,always use new compost,avoid cold conditions and over watering and ensure that the bottom of the stem,the collar,doesn't get wet when watering.
HARVESTING AND STAGING
Usually,onlya single specimen is required although some shows ask for a pair.It should be cut from the plant with scissors (not pulled off)with a short length of stalk.With most cultivars the fruit should be between 12 inches(300 mm.)and 16 inches(400 mm.)long although there are shorter fruiting cultivars.They should be straight and of uniform thickness,a fresh green colour and free from any blemishes.The judge will be looking for a flower attached. This is bound to be a little withered but if it has kept some yellow colour it shows that the fruit has been grown quickly,and quickly means well!Try not to lose the flower when taking the fruit to the show.It needs to be carefully packed in a box so that it does not roll around and get damaged or lose the flower.
(The editor has written a note here saying that"under the R.H.S.recently revised exhibitors handbook they can now be shown with or without the flower attached")
CULTIVARS TO GROW
TOMATOES
Nowadays,you can get tomatoes that are not just red but yellow,orange,chocolate coloured,striped or even green when ripe.There are cherry types,beafsteak,pear shaped,plum shaped and everything in between.These are all useful in largs displays and for the table but traditional red cultivars are more likely to get the prizes in individual dishes.I would advise therefore that for showing,stick to the red cultivars.I have had success with Alicante and Shirley both of which are widely available.Two others that are nearly always in the prizes at the moment are Cedrico (Shelleys and Medwyns)and Classy(Shelleys)
CUCUMBERS
Traditional,open pollinated cultivars that have male and female flowers on the same plant are often used.The most popular of these for exhibition are Telegraph(Dobies)and King George (Robinsons).I have grown both of these with success but now I grow thw more recent"all female"cultivars.The most popular of these seems to be Carmen(Dobies,Thompson and Morgan,Shelleys and Medwyns).This is the only one I have grown but there are several others.
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Post by wildlifefriendly on Jan 22, 2011 14:32:20 GMT
ODDS AND ENDS
In this series I have now covered most of the main show vegetables treating them in groups according to the way they are grown.However there are a few others thatare also seen at shows which I couldn,t include in any of the other groups and which do not warrant an article of their own.
These are marrows,pumpkins,lettuce and rhubarb.At nearly every show there is a class for marrows and sometimes for courgetes as well.Although there are some cultivars that are grown for cropping as courgetes botanically a courgete is simply a small marrow.
At some shosa I go to but not all,there are also classes for lettuce and rhubarb.Lettuce can also be shown in classes for saladings.
MARROWS,COURGETES AND PUMPKINS
Ground preparation.
These like a good rich soil with plenty of organic matter and general fertiliser raked in before planting.With regard to crop rotation I do not have a special place for them due to lack of space but put the plants anywhere where there is room.I think they could go in the brassica,potato or legume beds if there is room.There are trailing and bush varieties of marrows and I usually plant some trailing ones on the edge of the potato bed .When the early potatoes are dug up the marrows are allowed to trail over the vacant ground.They also need a sunny position.
Seed sowing
These vegetables cannot be planted out till late May or early June when all danger of frost is passed.The sowing date needs to be decided with this in mind and I think mid April is suitable.The seeds are large enough to be sown singly and should be sown on their edge ,one to a 3 inch(75mm.)pot using a good quality of multi purpose compost and put in a heated propagator.As the seed is flat it is important to sow on their edge to avoid rotting.After germination they are removed from the propagator and kept in the greenhouse till May when they are hardened off in a cold frame before planting.If you don,t have a propagator you can sow them in the greenhouse or on the kitchen window sill but they will just take a bit longer to germinate.If the plants are getting pot bound before it is safe to plant out they can be potted on into 5 inch(125mm.)pots.
Planting out
When planting I dig a hole with a spade and mix a forkfull of old manure with the soil when I replace it and then firm before planting.I have seen them planted successfully on top of old,well rotted compost heaps in a depression filled with soil-less compost.
Growing on
They need to be well watered in dry weather and fed two or three times with a good general liquid fertiliser such as maxicrop.When the fruits are forming,I change to one with a higher potash content like phostrogen or a liquid tomato food
Pests and diseass
Even though they are related to cucumbers they are not as susceptible to disease and the only pest we need to worry about are slugs.We therefore need to apply slug pellets and renew them occasionally.Slugs will eat into the fruits if we let them.
Pollination
The plants have both male and female flowers and unlike greenhouse cucumbers the female flowers need pollinating.I don,t find though that they need doing artificially .There are normally enough insects outside to do it for us.in the case of pumpkins only 2 or 3 fruits should be allowed to form on each plant to get maximum size.All other flowers are removed when you are sure that those you have left have been pollinated and the fruits begun to swell.I place sheets of builders damp proof material or tiles under developing marrows to keep them off the soil.This helps to prevent rotting and keeps them clean.It is advisable to turn pumpkins as they develop so that they ripen evenly.
HARVESTING ANS STAGING
Marrows
At all the shows I go to you only need one for an entry but at some shows they ask for two.The recomended size is 12 to 15 inches(300 to 375mm.)Fruits should be young and firm and of uniform thickness.The stalk should be attached and still tender.Wrap them in tissue paoer to take them to the show.If two are required they should of course be well matched in size,shape and colour.Stage them directly on the show bench.
Courgetes
Courgetes are simply marrows harvested young.Their length should be betwwen four and six inches(100 to 150mm).Three is the normally required number and they should be well matched,young,tender,shapely,straight and free from blemishes.Stand them side by side on a plate.Both marrows and courgetes should be picked from the plants regularly to prolong cropping.At some shows,however,there is a class for the heaviest marrow.In this case you can,t pick them all young.You would have to allow one to grow to its maximum size and remove all the others.
Pumpkins
These are harvested when they are large enough but they don,t have to be massive.They should be firm and of good shape,blemish free and an even colour with their stalk attached.
LETTUCE
Ground preparation
I do not grow lettuce in any particular place.They go in anywhere there is room,along the edges of beds or between other crops.I just rake in some fish,blood and bone before planting
Seed sowing
Lettuce take about 2 months from sowing to harvesting.The trick with lettuce is to sow"little and often"A beginners mistake is to have dozens of lettuce ready all at once.They don,t keep in show condition very long or even in decent condition for the table so if you have a glut many are wasted.Usually you only need two for an entry at a show so there is no need to have dozens ready at once.The seeds can be sown directly where they are to groe ,in shallow drills then thinned out to 12 inches(300 mm.)apart.I find this a bit hit and miss though so more often I sow in cell trays,three or four seeds to a cell and reduce them to one if they all germinate.They are sown in the greenhouse but not in a propagator as they dont germinate well at high temperatures.They are later hardened off and planted out 12 inches(300mm.)apart.
Growing on
If fertiliser was raked into the ground before planting they don,t need any extra feeding.just keep the weeds down and water in dry weather.
Pests and diseases
There are a few diseases which can affect lettuce such as downy mildew but they are not common and I have never experienced them.They occasionally get greeenfly but the usual sprays will see them off .Make sure though that you use one that is suitable for edible crops .There is usually a recommended time between spraying and harvesting.The main problem though is slugs.A row of seedlings can disappear overnight!!So apply slug pellets regularly or use whatever you are comfortable with and keep an eye open for slugs at all times.If you can keep the slugs off you are well on the way to a red card.
Harvesting and staging
Show lettuces should be fresh with firm solid hearts,blemish free and showing no signs of bolting.The schedule may say that you have to show them with roots on.Whether or not this is required it is advisable to leave the roots on as it is easier to keep them fresh that way.Dig them up carefully on the morning of the show and wash them in a bucket or with a hose pipe.As you do this be careful not to damage any leaves.Crisphead lettuces are especially easy to damage.If the outer leaves are damaged they can be removed but if too many are removed the judge will notice and down-point the exhibit.If two are needed they should be well matched.Enclose the roots in small plastic bags fastened with an elastic band or similar.Great care is needed not to break off any more leaves taking them to the show.
RHUBARB
Ground preparation and planting
The rhubarb on my allotment was there when I took it over.I imagine this is the case on most allotments because,once planted it can stay put for years-and is often neglected.Rhubarb neglected like this can stillgive a reasonable crop but performance can be much improved.Old clumps are better split every few years and re-planted about 2 or 3 feet (600 to 900mm.)apart.This is best done in February or March.When dividing clumpslike this or planting roots(crowns)that you have bought in remember that they may be in position for a number of years.The site,which should be open and sunny,not just any old corner,should be well dug and plenty of manure or compost added.
Growing on
It is not advisable to pick any sticks from newly planted clumps for the first year.Established clumps benefit from an application of fertiliser -growmore or fish,blood and bone occasionally.Watering in dry weather also helps and if any flower stalks grow they should be removed.All this extra care will improve the quality and size of the sticks.There are no particular pests and diseases to worry about.
Harvesting and staging
The sticks should be long and straight,fresh and tender and of good colour.Do not cut the stems from the clump but remove them with a steady downward twist and pull.Check the wording of the schedule to see how much of the foliage has to be cut off and also how many sticks are required.It may be any number from three to six.If only three are required I suggest you tie them together,otherwise lay themneatly alongside each other.Trim the "wings"at the base of each stickto make them look tidy.
RECOMMENDED CULTIVARS
Marrows and courgetes
I used to grow "long green trailing"(Dobies,Robinsons and Shelleys)which is reliable.Nowadays I usually grow bush varieties because thet take up less room."Green bush"(Suttons),"Tiger cross"(Suttons,Unwins and Thompson and Morgan),and "Badger cross"(Dobies,Marshals,Shelleys and Thompson and Morgan)are all suitable and I usually grow "Badger cross"Any of these can be shown as courgetes if they are cut between 4 and 6 inches(100 to 150mm.)long.
For courgetes though I prefer to grow "normal"courgete cultivars.
"Zucchini"(Most suppliers)is popular but I like to grow yellow cultivars because they look attractive.I grow"Orelia"(Dobies,Shelleys)or "Gold rush"(Robinsons)
Pumpkins
Due to lack of space I don,t grow pumpkins but popular and reliable cultivars are "Atlantic giant"(Thompson and Morgan,Marshals,Robinsons and Shelleys)","Mammoth"(Dobies),"Halloween"(Unwins)and "Hundredweight"(Suttons)
Lettuce
There are 4 main types of lettuce(crisphead,butterhead,cos and loose leaved)I grow all these types and you will find plenty of choice.Because these articles are about showing I think the best types are crisphead and butterhead.For crisphead,I have successfully grown "Webbs wonderfull"(most suppliers)and "lakeland"(Dobies and Marshalls).
For butterhead cultivars there are"All the year round"and "Buttercrunch"(most suppliers)
The most popular "cos"cultivar is "little gem"(all suppliers).
Rhubarb
I dont know which cultivar my rhubarb is because it was on the allotment before me.If you are planting new stock,however there is a good choice including"Glaskins perpetual"(Thompson and Morgan),"Champagne"(Dobies,Robinsons),"Victoria"(Suttons ,Robinsons)and "Stockbridge arrow"(Dobies).
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Post by wildlifefriendly on Jan 22, 2011 14:33:18 GMT
10)ANY OTHER VEGETABLE
This is the tenth in a series of eleven articles intended to help newcomers to the show bench
Because of what happened when I typed the last article in July I will post this one in sections
"In this series I have covered all the vegetables for which there are classes at the shows where I exhibit.Of course the classes vary a lot from show to show.The most popular show vegetables -like potatoes,onions and carrots appear in all schedules whereas others such as lettuce and parsnips appear in some but not others.
At almost all shows however there is a class worded "any other vegetable"or "any vegetable not classified elsewhere".In other words a class in which you can show any vegetable for which there is no class requirung that particular vegetable in the schedule.More often that not you have to show just one specimen but sometimes it will say "vegetables,and not "vegetable",that is,more than one and it doesn,t tell you how many.If no number is specified you can show any number you want but don,t show too many.Don,t forget that the more specimens you include the more difficult it is to get a uniform set without blemishes.
The vegetables I am writing about in this article do not usually feature as seperate classes in show schedules but they can be grown for this particular class.
SWEET CORN
I think that sweet corn is just about the best subject to grow for the "any other vegetale"class.I have won with it many times,once in a class with twenty-two entries.It was up against pumpkins,melons,parsnips and several others.
GROUND PREPARATION
Sweet corn like a fertile soil with plenty of well rotted manure dug in.I plant them in the same bed as legumes(peas and beans) because their requirements are similar.Rake in a good general fertiliser before planting.
SOWING
Sweet corn can be sown directly into the soil outside but it is better to sow them in a propagator in the greenhouse to get larger plants for planting out at the end of May.They cannot be planted out any earlies because they will not stand any frost.The sowing date has to be worked out with this in mind and the middle of April is about right.If the seeds are sown later and the plants planted out later the cobs will of couse be later to ripen and in a bad summer,may not ripen well at all.I sow the seeds individually in 3 inch(75 mm.)pots in the propagator then keep the plants in the greenhouse till the middle of May.They are potted on into 4 inch(100 mm.)pots using any good potting compost in May and hardened off in a cold frame before planting out.
PLANTING
The plants are planted out in late May or early June eighteen inches(450 mm)apart.It is important to plant in blocks rather than in straight lines to aid pollination.If pollination is is not done efficiently the cobs will not fill up as they should and be no use for showing.
GROWING ON
The plants will grow about 4 or 5 feet((1.2 to 1.5 metres)tall so they will need staking before they blow over!With regard to feeding,if they had a general fertiliser raked in the ground before planting,all they need now is two or three feeds of Maxicrop or Phostrogen as they grow.Eventually the plants will produce "tassels"at the top which are the male flowers.The female flowers called "silks"are like long pieces of cotton or fine string which produce the cobs which are formed in the leaf joints and are fertilised by pollen from the male flowers at the top of the plants.The cobs enlarge to about 7 inches(180 mm) long.The female flowers remain at the end of the cobs.
PESTS AND DISEASES
I have never had any problems with pests or diseases.However,mice can eat seed sown outdoors and slugs can attack young plants especially from outdoor sown seed.
HARVESTING
The condition of the silks are the first indication as to the ripeness of the cobs because they turn from a creamy colour to brown.Another way to test for ripeness is to peel away some of the protective outer sheath.The individual kernels should be a golden colour and if you insert your finger or thumb nail the liquid should be milky ,not colourless like water which is too young,or of a floury texture which is too old.Don,t do this with a cob you intend to show though.The cobs come off the plant with a gentle downward pull.
STAGING
I usually like to take off about 4 cobs which look likely specimens then I can select the best one for the show (I normally only show one).The others keep the rest of the family happy!I carefully cut away one side of the sheaf so that all the kernels are visible.They should be of good colour and in straight lines with none missing.If the cob is not pollinated properly the kernels at the top are often missing.The chosen cob is put on a plate and placed at the front of the show bench so that the judge cannot help to be impressed!
PEPPERS AND AUBERGINES
These can be grown outside but for show purposes they are better grown in the greenhouse like tomatoes and cucumbers.In fact they like similar conditions to tomatoes to which they are related.
SOWING
Both take about 18 to 20 weeks from sowing to picking the first fruits.I sow mine in early March .The seeds are spaced out about an inch (25 mm) apart on small trays or pots of good quality multi -purpose compost in the propagator.Once germinated they are removed from the propagator but kept in the warm greenhouse.They are potted individually into 3 inch(75 mm.)pots and later into 4 inch((100 mm.)pots.
PLANTING AND GROWING ON
Both peppers and aubergines can ge grown in growbags but I normally grow them in 9 inch(225 mm.)pots using a good potting compost.I use a soil-less compost for these as I do with tomatoes and cucumbers.The plants need some support as they grow.Neither of them grow tall so a 3 foot(90.mm.)cane is sufficient.Feeding is commenced about 4 weeks after the final potting.I use the same fertilisers as I do for tomatoes which have a high potash content.Phostrogen or Maxicrop tomato special are the ones I use but any good tomato fertiliser is fine.Watering should not be neglected but the plants don,t want flooding either.I believe that peppers can get blossom end rot like tomatoes if watering is erratic but I have never experienced it.Don,t let water splash onto the fruits although it is a good idea to mist the plants occasionally because it helps the flowers to set and discourages red spider.I don,t find that the flowers need artificially pollinating as I do with tomatoes,the misting being sufficient.
PESTS AND DISEASES
The main pest problems with growing peppers and aubergines is whitefly.They seem to be the first plants these pests attack.You need to be very watchful and spray at the first signs of attack.Any good insecticide will get rid of greenfly but whitefly are more difficult.I think the best spray is Sprayday but it needs to be used at fortnightly intervals because it doesn,t kill the eggs and they soon hatch to give more adults!If they are not controled the plants will be covered in sooty mould.An alternative to spraying is a biological control using a parasitic wasp,Encarsia formosa.Red spider can be controlled with a biological control,Phytoseulis persimilis.
HARVESTING AND STAGING
The fruits appear and mature over quite a long period so the chances that there will be at least one fruit at its best are good.If any fruits appear too early cut them for use in the kitchen.If these early fruits are left on the plants future production may be slowed down and could stop.
Aubergines should be large,shapely and solid,well coloured (according to the cultivar),free from blemishes and with fresh calyces.Cut them on show day or the day before.Hold the fruit by the stalk to avoid getting finger prints on the skin.Never polish them as they have a natural bloom and the judge will notice if they have been polished.
Peppers start off green but mature into different colours according to the variety.You can show them green but they have a better chance of winning if they are left to colour up.What the judge is looking for is similar to aubergines-large,shapely solid fruits,free from blemishes with the colour according to the cultivar.
With both peppers and aubergines it is better to show just one specimen.If more than one is asked for they need to be well matched .I think they look better on a plate rather than just placed on the bench.
CALABRESE
I have occasionally shown calabrese(summer broccoli) in the "any other vegetable"class if the other things I grow are not ready or not good enough.
GROUND PREPARATION
They should be grown in the same bed as other brassicas(cabbages,cauliflowers,kale and sprouts)They need a good rich firm soil with plenty of organic matter and general fertiliser raked in before planting.
SOWING AND GROWING ON
As with other brassicas 3 or 4 seeds are sown in 3 inch(75.mm.)pots of multi-purpose compost in the greenhouse then reduced to one if they all germinate.sowing is usually done in early March.Later they are potted into 5 inch(125 mm.) pots and hardened off in the cold frame before planting out in May.They benefit from High nitrogen feeds during the growing season at 2 or 3 week intervals.You can use nitro chalk,dried blood or nitrate of soda just sprinkled round the plants and watered in.They also need to be kept watered in dry weather.
PESTS AND DISEASES
Because it is a brassica calabrese suffers from the same pests and diseases as cabbages,cauliflowers and sprouts.The main pests are cabbage root fly,greenfly,whitefly,caterpillars and slugs.The usual method of controlling cabbage root fly is to use felt discs round the base of the plants to prevent the females from laying their eggs.Greenfly and whitefly need looking out for and sprayed with Sprayday.If whitefly is a problem you need to spray at fortnightly intervals as stated above for peppers and aubergines.The best way to control caterpillars is to look on the undersides of the leaves for butterflies eggs and squash them.You will need to go round at least twice a week .Better still cover the whole bed with netting to stop the butterflies getting to the plants.Slug pellets need to be sprinkled round the plants and renewed when necessary.For more details about pests and diseases consult the chapter on brassicas.
HARVESTING AND STAGING
Show the large central heads for maximum points although the side shoots can be shown and will be judged as if they were shoots of sprouting broccoli.The heads do not stay in show condition very longas they soon begin to go to seed.If you have any heads in the right condition on show day cut them from the plants with some stalk attached.They should be fresh,solid,and tightly closed,and of good colour.
RECOMMENDED CULTIVARS
SWEET CORN
I consider the best cultivar is "Sundance(Dobies,and Suttons)and this is the one I grow every year.I have heard "Swift"and Lark"(most suppliers)recommended but I have not tried them.It is strongly recommended that you only grow one variety because they cross pollinate.
AUBERGINES
There are black,white and red fruited cultivars but I have only grown the black ones.I have grown "Moneymaker"(most suppliers)but the one I usually grow now is "Bonica"(Dobies and Suttons)
PEPPERS
I think the red,yellow or orange cultivars are all suitable for exhibition.I have never grown an orange one but I have successfully grown "Redskin"(Dobies and Suttons)and "Bell Boy"(Marshalls and Shelleys)both of which are red when mature and "Yellow Bell"(Dobies and Suttons)
CALABRESE
There are several suitable cultivars but "Marathon"(Dobies,Unwins and Marshalls)is I think the most popular."Olympia"(Dobies and Unwins)is also recommended but I have not grown it myself.
I have also shown rhubarb in the "any other vegetable"class with some success.This was covered in the last chapter.I have shown fennel for the first time this year.Other vegetables I have seen several times in this class are garlic,pumpkins and squashes but I don,t grow these.The editor has written a note at the bottom that he has seen salsify,scorzonera,figs and cape gooseberries in this class and he says that it is a nightmare to judge.
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Post by derekbrooks on Jan 24, 2011 21:03:14 GMT
11 (COLLECTIONS)
These articles have already covered a wide range of vegetables from July 2008 onwards.
It is now appropriate to bring all the individual vegetables together and describe how to exhibit collections,probably one of the most difficult classes to enter.In each article the intention has been to help the novice grower or exhibitor to grow and prepare material for exhibition,particularly at local shows.As one of the qualities of show vegetables is to grow themto their culinary perfection the growing techniques describedare suitable for any vegetable growerwho wants to grow good quality produce whether he or she is interested in exhibiting.
(The above is a comment from the N.V.S.editor)
"I hope that by the time you have read the rest of the articles in this series you will have done some showing and had some successes!Perhaps you now feel that you would like to have a go at a collection.
There is a class for a collection of vegetables at practically every show but they are not all worded the same way.You need to check the schedule carefully to see what can be included.The wording always includes the word"kind".In other words each dish of vegetables in the collection must be of a different kind.Examples of different kinds of vegetables are cabbages,carrots,parsnips and potatoes.Two different cultivarsof the same vegetable,or kind,are not allowed.Cultivars are what we use to call varieties.Ramco,winnigstadt and kilaton are different cultivars of cabbages and boltardy,monodet and ferono are dfferent cultivars of beetroot.You need to be clear about what are different kinds of vegetables and which are different cultivars.If you include large onions in the collection you can,t include small onions as well.The same applies to exhibition and pickling shallots,long and short carrots,blanch leeks and pot leeks.I was once disqualified for including both runner beans and French beans in the same collection.In this case the judge was wrong because runner,French and broad beans are different kinds of beans.
The number of kinds of vegetables in a collection can be anything from three to six.The number of individual vegetables in in a dish is more often than not the same number as in the single dish classes.,for example 3 onions,3 carrots,or 6 runner beans or there may be other instructions in the schedule.
The judge will point each dish individually and the same qualities apply as in the single dish classes as to size,freshness,colour ,uniformity and so on.In some shows only one specimen of each vegetable is required.This is a lot easier as there is no matching to do and you get maximum points for uniformity.When sorting the vegetables for the other classes there is often one that is better than the rest ,for example one runner bean longer than the rest.These cannot be included in the normal classes because you would lose points for uniformity but they can go in this kind of a collection.
In the rest of the articles in this series I have not mentioned the pointing of vegetables because it is only in collections that this becomes meaningful.Each kind of vegetable is judged to a maximum number of points.The points to which vegetable is marked is dependent on how difficult it is to grow to exhibition standard,maximum points being awarded to a perfect specimen.Those considered to be the most difficult are marked out of a total of 20 points and are known by exhibitors as "20 pointers"
At present the number of points to which each vegetable is marked are as follows
20 POINTS .................... 18 POINTS ............ ......... 15 POINTS
Celery ...................... Cucumbers ........... .......... Cabbages
Cauliflowers ...................Runner beans ....................Marrows
Long beet ...................Shallots(exhibition)................ Turnips
Leeks(pot and blanch)....Stump carrots ........ ......... Swedes
Parsnips.........................Aubergines.....Onions(250gms.and under)
Peas..........................Tomatoes(medium) ..................French beans
Potato's....................Celery(self blanching) .................Broad beans
Long Carrots.......................................................................Lettuce
Onions (over 250 Grms).................... ...........................Beet (globe)
...........................................................................................Peppers
You need to consider the points value of each vegetable when deciding which to include in your collection.If for example the collection calls for six kinds and you are able to show six"20 pointers"you stand the best chance because you will be pointed out of 120 points which is the maximum.If you include some lower poited vegetables the maximum points possible would of course be less.It is good policy,therefore to show all 20 pointed vegetables but only if they are of reasonable quality.You stand a better chance with a really good caggage(15 points) than with a sub standard cauliflower(20 points)
(more to follow)
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Post by derekbrooks on Jan 24, 2011 21:30:39 GMT
STAGING
At most shows there will be a specified area of bench space in which to stage the collection often 3 feet by 2 feet(900 by 600 mm.).You then have to arrange your vegetables within this space in the way you think they look most attractive.When the judge has pointed two collections and they have the same points the one that is staged better is likely to get the red card.I always stage mine on black material because I think it creates a good impression.I put the onions on rings and vegetables such as potatoes on plates and dwarf beans or peas on plates or doilies.
I think long vegetables like long carrots,leeks and celery look better down the sides with smaller ones in the centre.The whole exhibit should look balanced.By this I mean that both halves should look similar.The individual vegetables of one kind don,t have to be placed together.If for example you are showing two leeks and these are the only long vegetables you can place one down each side and everything else in the centre to make the exhibit look balanced.You just have to arrange your exhibit in the way you think looks most attractive.You can usually use parsley(but only parsley)as garnishing between the other vegetables but check with the schedule to be sure.
(more to follow)
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Post by derekbrooks on Jan 24, 2011 21:59:40 GMT
GARDEN NEWS TOP TRAY
This is another class you may wish to enter.Many local shows hold this class and the prize money is good because it is sponsored.
The class has its own rules and these do vary sometimes depending on the sponsor so check with the schedule.
At the time of writing we are asked for a display of three kinds of vegetables from a list of fifteen which are given in the schedule,the numbers of each required is also given.Each vegetable is judged out of 20 points,made up of 7 for size,shape and colour,7 for condition and 6 for uniformity.
The vegetables are to be displayed in an area not over 18 by 24 inches without bending any part of them.
A black cloth is permitted or the tray may be painted Parsley is allowed for garnishing but no accessories such as plates or onion rings are allowed.
I think that if you are only showing small vegetables they look lost in an area of this size.I normally use these smaller types such as runner beans,potatoes,peas,stump carrots or small onions and use the larger ones for the other collections.I have therefore made myself a smaller tray measuring 16 by 12 inches which is big enough.The runner beans normally go down the sides and the other two in the centre.Another possibility is to place the runner beans diagonally accross the tray and the other two in the corners.
I do hope that by writing these articles I have encouraged you to have a go at exhibiting and you get plenty of red cards.
The best of luck to you all!
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Post by Tel on Jan 25, 2011 8:16:46 GMT
I might just try a few dahlias, and maybe a few veg Derek.  |
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Post by derekbrooks on Jan 25, 2011 22:24:51 GMT
Steve has had a go at sorting the columns out that I mentioned yesterday but they have not worked out quite right.I have just phoned him to tell him that long carrots should be in the first column and globe beet,lettuce and peppers in the third column
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Post by derekbrooks on Jul 7, 2011 22:39:46 GMT
I had some exciting news yesterday :)The National Vegetable Society has put all these articles together and published a colourful book.I have been wanting this for a while because these articles cover the whole subject of growing and exhibiting veg for beginners.Even if a person is not interested in showing ,the book explains how to grow all the vegetables to a high standard.
I received a copy of it yesterday and I am thrilled to bits with it.
It is only £3.99 plus £1 postage.I thought it was worth more than that but that is what they they are charging.
If you would like one (and I hope most of you do!)please let me know on the forum or email me-derekbrooks70@btinternet.com
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