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Post by robh on Jan 6, 2016 18:23:32 GMT
i use a gas heater with a built in thermostat
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kev
New Member
Posts: 3 
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Post by kev on Mar 24, 2016 14:05:48 GMT
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Post by sweetpea on Mar 24, 2016 18:16:36 GMT
I don't have a heater also I don't have a problem
Shut the doors at nidght an fleece or bubble wrap if you think it needs it.
28F the other night tomatoes, begonias etc. no casualties. many plants are hardier than you might think
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Post by daitheplant on Mar 24, 2016 20:19:35 GMT
Insulating a greenhouse cures 2 problems. 1/ It keeps the building frost-free over winter and 2/ It acts as shading in the summer.
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Post by roofgardener on Mar 25, 2016 15:53:38 GMT
daitheplant, have you ever insulated a polytunnel, as opposed to a rigid-frame greenhouse ? I'm still having difficulties preventing my bubblewrap sheets from falling down  It's no big deal really... just a bit... annoying. And untidy.
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Post by grindle on Mar 25, 2016 17:08:30 GMT
Mine is beginning to fall down too roofgardener the double sided tape I used is now drying out, but hopefully it will be time to take it down soon  |
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Post by roofgardener on Mar 25, 2016 17:25:44 GMT
I've threaded mine through the internal metal skelaton of the 'tunnel grindle, but even when tied down (with cable ties), it still tends to sag inbetween the support struts. I think conventional greenhouses have special metal clips for this sort of thing ? But then, we are not conventional types  |
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Post by daitheplant on Mar 25, 2016 20:59:51 GMT
Ever tried insulating OUTSIDE the skin?
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Post by roofgardener on Mar 26, 2016 7:56:00 GMT
It's certainly a thought, daitheplant, and I can see it would have lots of advantages. Currently the 'tunnel is pushed up against a low wall, making access to one (long) side all but impossible. This would make it very difficult to attach external insulation. I can't easily MOVE the 'tunnel - not even by 12" - as it is now immoblised by the sheer weight of shelving, plants, and owls. However, I am kinda planning on replacing the 'tunnel after this season. This would give me an opportunity to "pre-install" some sort of permanant draw-string arrangement prior to moving the new tunnel into position; the panels would be permanantly bonded to the frame on the "innacessible" side, but with drawstings allowing them to be pulled over, and locked down on the accessible side, as required. I'm not sure how to brace them against strong winds/storms. I doubt my existing bubblewrap sheets would cope with the stresses. Perhaps I'd just have to pull them back into the 'stored' position when bad weather is forecast ? There's definately food for thought there; I shall ponder on this further. Thanks for the suggestion ! |
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Post by grindle on Mar 26, 2016 8:01:40 GMT
sounds like a plan, definately give you a project to work on. If you decide to upgrade the tunnel, will you get a bigger one or keep it to the same size
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Post by roofgardener on Mar 26, 2016 8:09:17 GMT
Same size, grindle. The reason for getting a new one is that the current one has lots of holes in it, plus I didn't actually construct it properly in the first place. The frame was slightly distorted following its brief flight during the 2015 storms, and several of the tie-downs are broken. Non of this is fatal, and I COULD 'bodge' it to give it new life, but it IS feeling a bit "tired", and they only cost around £70, I could get away with using it for another year, especially if I can use the external insulation concept to effectively plug up the holes. My current thinking though is to consider 2014/2015 as a 'dry run', and THIS time do it "properly". Plus - of course - it would be an ideal opportunity to install the 'drawstring' external insulation system. |
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Post by grindle on Mar 26, 2016 8:54:05 GMT
that makes sense, now you have the experience of putting one up and keeping in from taking off in a strong wind, you can have a brand new one and know all the pitfalls  . I know my original bit of the greenhouse has a plastic cover and that is splitting big time now, sticky back plastic and polytunnel tape are wonderful things  I can't afford to put glazing in it, but have managed to source some semi rigid plastic which is virtually the same and will replace it in the autumn, that should do me a few more years. |
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Post by daisy on Mar 26, 2016 12:11:33 GMT
roofgardener have you ever tried the candle in the terracotta pot method? I have and they omit more heat than you'd think - and it's inexpensive if you already have terracotta pots :-))
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Post by grindle on Mar 26, 2016 18:00:20 GMT
certainly beats a parafin heater that leaves everything black soot |
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Post by daitheplant on Mar 26, 2016 20:25:29 GMT
Same size, grindle . The reason for getting a new one is that the current one has lots of holes in it, plus I didn't actually construct it properly in the first place. The frame was slightly distorted following its brief flight during the 2015 storms, and several of the tie-downs are broken. Non of this is fatal, and I COULD 'bodge' it to give it new life, but it IS feeling a bit "tired", and they only cost around £70, I could get away with using it for another year, especially if I can use the external insulation concept to effectively plug up the holes. My current thinking though is to consider 2014/2015 as a 'dry run', and THIS time do it "properly". Plus - of course - it would be an ideal opportunity to install the 'drawstring' external insulation system. Roofus, if it is only the skin which needs replacing, it should only cost about £20-£30. |
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. I know my original bit of the greenhouse has a plastic cover and that is splitting big time now, sticky back plastic and polytunnel tape are wonderful things 
I can't afford to put glazing in it, but have managed to source some semi rigid plastic which is virtually the same and will replace it in the autumn, that should do me a few more years.
Sept 6, 2018 17:58:08 GMT
Sept 6, 2018 17:58:08 GMT
Aug 10, 2019 9:01:47 GMT