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Post by roofgardener on Sept 21, 2015 8:47:35 GMT
Hmm... the problem is that my parents keep their house at quite a high temperature.
I've got an insulation blanket they could wrap the pot in...
... hmmm... or perhaps the garage ?
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Post by Lou78W on Sept 21, 2015 13:50:54 GMT
It might work....
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Post by Deleted on Sept 21, 2015 14:27:23 GMT
In amongst other goings on at moment I am trying to think and prepare for storing my tubers. Can anyone help/advise please? I am thinking cleaning and drying placing in trays but are strong cardboard trays good enough? Also I remember mum and dad covering with newspaper but what did they do underneath the paper? Is there a good video or any tips please? May not be able to respond straight away but do appreciate help I know people have their own systems Cat but this is what I do. After cutting the tops down roughly,I wash any loose soil off them. (I have light free draining soil which washes off easily) A few days on mesh trays I further trim the thick main stem down to an inch or two. I trim off the 'spidery' roots leaving the main lobes.(thick stems hold lots of water. Next, in the style of Phil Damp I twist a slim long screwdriver straight down the stem and out the other side. You can get a length of wire through and the label tied on. Another few days drying, they get a shake of sulphur powder and into cardboard 'banana boxes (free from morrissons) with lids. I bury the tubers in dry peat myself in the boxes then stack them in a dry shed wrapped in an old heavy quilt. Had very few losses this way and they start shooting again quickly in March when I set them out. Phillip Damp made a great suggestion, mark your plants with a 3* rating and keep only the best performers. |
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Post by Raymond on Sept 21, 2015 17:02:32 GMT
I do the screw driver technique @davidv works well. I have also tried using vermiculite and peat as storage mediums. I liked the vermiculite a little better.
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Post by lesley on Sept 21, 2015 17:56:21 GMT
Being very ignorant why do you screwdriver them ?? I've never heard that before  |
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Post by Cat on Sept 21, 2015 18:36:59 GMT
In amongst other goings on at moment I am trying to think and prepare for storing my tubers. Can anyone help/advise please? I am thinking cleaning and drying placing in trays but are strong cardboard trays good enough? Also I remember mum and dad covering with newspaper but what did they do underneath the paper? Is there a good video or any tips please? May not be able to respond straight away but do appreciate help I know people have their own systems Cat but this is what I do. After cutting the tops down roughly,I wash any loose soil off them. (I have light free draining soil which washes off easily) A few days on mesh trays I further trim the thick main stem down to an inch or two. I trim off the 'spidery' roots leaving the main lobes.(thick stems hold lots of water. Next, in the style of Phil Damp I twist a slim long screwdriver straight down the stem and out the other side. You can get a length of wire through and the label tied on. Another few days drying, they get a shake of sulphur powder and into cardboard 'banana boxes (free from morrissons) with lids. I bury the tubers in dry peat myself in the boxes then stack them in a dry shed wrapped in an old heavy quilt. Had very few losses this way and they start shooting again quickly in March when I set them out. Phillip Damp made a great suggestion, mark your plants with a 3* rating and keep only the best performers. That's great thanks, my thoughts but in order! Appreciate this @davidv |
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Post by Cat on Sept 21, 2015 18:37:53 GMT
Being very ignorant why do you screwdriver them ?? I've never heard that before Helps to drain sap and prevent rotting I believe |
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Post by Moonlight on Sept 21, 2015 22:01:18 GMT
Each to their own method. I don't do that makes me cringe - very brutal and unnecessarily stress on plant.
My Dad does it differently again.
My Dad digs them up but doesn't wash or try and clean them up at all. He finds that the soil protects the (my terminology) 'lobes' of the tuber, keeping it all in one piece. The soil around the tuber dries naturally and so the tuber itself does not become dehydrated. Heat wise he does have the heating come on when the temperature looks likely to drop below freezing.
My way is newspaper, fleece and when the temp drops actually cover them in towels which I then remove once temp improves.
Another thing he has tried is insulating them in polystyrene. A friend saves their meat delivery container which has thick polystyrene and lid which has helped protect some of his more precious tubers. Then the air temperature is maintained.
But I said - Each to their own - find a way that works for you.
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Post by MarkE on Sept 22, 2015 12:05:12 GMT
Just wondering what people's opinion is on spacing etc I will have a growing area of 40ft X 24ft and just want to grow poms in it. grew plants 20" apart this year, what are people's thoughts on spacing of beds and paths and how many can I fit in thank you!
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Post by gareth on Sept 22, 2015 12:47:35 GMT
Are certain Characteristics more important than others when it comes to choosing what tubers to keep ? As i have 4 hillcrest Candy that have all grown differently. So is it better to keep ones that grow on better stems and are more robust plants, or keep shorter stockier plants where the flower was slightly better ?
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Post by robh on Sept 22, 2015 15:36:25 GMT
i know one of the guys on here has all his plants in pots he just lifts the pot out of the ground and stores them in his greenhouse till he is ready to set away
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Post by robh on Sept 22, 2015 15:38:52 GMT
has anybody heard from tel lately
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Post by Lou78W on Sept 22, 2015 16:23:20 GMT
has anybody heard from tel lately This has been mentioned on the other dahlia thread....and no.....we have not heard from him..... |
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Post by Raymond on Sept 22, 2015 20:49:26 GMT
gareth from what I have been told you need to look at each see which you have taken the best blooms from which has the best angle of bloom and also the overall habit and performance. I will keep the two best of each variety I plan to grow next year. With the aim of getting my cuttings from the tuber the plant that gave me the best blooms. I have earmarked ala Moonlight dad with wool. Red for keepers , blue for tuber sale and give to friends and green for compost or bin. It's been hard to select on some varieties eg my zoe have been very good all the plants. Senzoe Ursula for example I have four but I have two clear superior plants giving the best blooms.
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Post by Raymond on Sept 23, 2015 8:00:03 GMT
I was thinking I was going to drop winholm Diane next year but I have decided to keep it. Getting some lovely blooms now . Not really damping off to much either a bit spotty at the back only and without covers. Gave them a lot of potash and it seems to help harden the petal a bit. So sml Dec for next year will be winholm Diane and senzoe Ursula. Had some lovely senzoe and very good size now need to get three of each on the bench. I will try a couple of wyns again grown a bit differently. Here a couple of blooms I cut for a vase in the house as guests coming yesterday.    |
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