|
Post by MarkE on Sept 14, 2014 14:17:03 GMT
Hi everyone! I've asked before about how many field tubers to keep for how many plants etc? I was wondering if I was to buy tubers from say halls of heddon how many I would need for say 10 plants of any particular variety? Trying to find ways of keeping costs down! Thankyou Buying tubers is an expensive way of getting your stock. The tubers supplied by halls, jrg and others are only small pot tubers (grown in 4in pots) and from my experience can only be expected to throw about three good cuttings per tuber. So, to get 10 cuttings you would need at least 3 tubers and some luck on the amount of shoots they throw. As scrumpy says field tubers will throw far more than this, and it may be possible to get all 10 cuttings from one tuber, so two field tubers would be plenty. Thankyou everyone will just have to get saving! Does anyone on here ever sell spare field tubers?
|
|
|
Post by Raymond on Sept 14, 2014 18:40:43 GMT
@markymate many thanks. Luck I will definitely need plenty of that Gonna give it a go. Got nothing to loose. My dad wants me to try said my mother would have been super proud. She was the talented gardener. Better start saving going to be an expensive spring got lots to buy least of all the tubors or cuttings. Cheers
|
|
|
Post by Raymond on Sept 14, 2014 22:48:38 GMT
Nds form arrived. Just found it in post from yesterday. Exciting !
Goodnight all
|
|
|
Post by Raymond on Sept 16, 2014 9:58:15 GMT
Question on taking cuttings and propogation
I am going to invest in a vitapod. If set up in my garage or summer house will I need to supply an extra light source.
Also I won't have a proper greenhouse until mid next year ( money a factor) I have seen most people do there cuttings and keep them on heated benches or propogators.
I do know you can have them in an unheated propogator but take longer to root but still works.
Any tips ?
Also want to take about 20 to 30 cuttings of each variety so I have spares and can give some away. How many tubors for that many cuttings ?
Many thanks
Raymond
|
|
|
Post by Raymond on Sept 16, 2014 9:59:41 GMT
Just seen the answer on tubor amounts above . Many thanks
|
|
|
Post by scrumpy on Sept 16, 2014 10:07:08 GMT
Personally, I wouldn't bother with a vitapod. All it is is a fancy heat mat with a lid. Just buy a heat mat and stick your own trays on top. Don't forget you'll need heat to start off your tubers too, not just for cuttings, and they won't fit in a vitapod. If you are growing in a garage then you will need artificial light. The T5 lights are the best. Come in all sizes. And I wouldn't attempt all those cuttings. It's nice to give them away, but better to concentrate on your own needs.
|
|
|
Post by Raymond on Sept 16, 2014 10:21:53 GMT
Thanks scrumpy I will get some metal shelving racking put up in the garage will insulate it and buy 2 heat mats ( any recommendations) get the light source. Going with field tubors hopefully sourced from Kent in November. If I am going to show in September when should I start the tubors on heat ? Some are Feb some are March etc.... Just taking a break now from clearing the mess foxes made last night. Left garage open by mistake last night and they ripped apart a 17kg bag of dog dry mix it is everywhere patio beds lawn all over ! What a state.
|
|
|
Post by scrumpy on Sept 16, 2014 13:50:39 GMT
linkGive them a ring. You won't get a mat cheaper, and they make to size. However, I would look elsewhere for a thermostat. As to starting tubers off, we start ours middle of January, to provide a succession of cuttings. First cuttings are very rarely used. As to insulation, you need a temperature of minimum 50'f for growth. So if your garage is cold, it's a heater you need.
|
|
|
Post by Raymond on Sept 17, 2014 9:53:50 GMT
Hi everyone I have the classes I can show in next year in Kent. They have 2 shows both in September. Also looking at perhaps a other as well. Main goal Open novice class the Kempton trophy 1 vase 3 blooms any cultivar or cultivars Other classes for members not in top level as if I am gonna invest the time effort and money may as well go for some others. Here are the sections. 1 bloom giant or large 1 vase 3 blooms med Dec 1 vase 3 blooms med cac or semi cac 1 vase 3 blooms small Dec 1 vase 3 blooms min Dec 1 vase 3 blooms small or min cac or semi cac 1 vase 3 blooms ball or large Pom 1 vase 3 blooms pom 1 vase 3 blooms waterlily Then 2 vases 3blooms small or min cac or semi cac 2 vases 3 blooms 2 different cultivars Members shield class 3 vases 3 blooms 3 different cultivars. There is the 2nd tier open as well and I am looking at the following 1 vase 3 blooms bi colour 1 vase 3 blooms collarette And the big one for 2 to 3 years time Pembury perpetual trophy For exhibitors with no fixed covers 3 vases from the following sections 3 blooms med cac or semi cac 3 blooms med Dec 3 blooms small cac or semi cac 3 blooms small Dec 3 blooms ball or large Pom 3 blooms min other than ball 5 blooms Pom So I need to start thinking about this seriously. Work out the planning for every aspect. Main aim is just to at least show something ! If scrumpy Tel markb or anyone else has some ideas on varieties or suggestions. Please let me know. I have worked out 20 in main border double row of 10 in back garden, 15 to 20 in large pots in back patio which could have some sort of temp cover which I need to work out. Front garden 15 to 20 depends on how much lawn I remove. I have a short list already that I am working on. I have ruled out the moonlights as from what I gather so far south just don't before as well. The kiwis I think also ruled out. Not doing giant or large. If I do only only 1 for the garden and probably Trooper Dan . Was thinking to do the basket class as well but show blooms main aim. I am pushing it as it is. Off to members mini show tonight to look at the staging and judging. GOT A HELL OF A LOT TO LEARN
|
|
|
Post by scrumpy on Sept 17, 2014 10:34:44 GMT
3 blooms med cac or semi cac vals candy 3 blooms med Dec white charlie two 3 blooms small cac or semi cac ryecroft zoe 3 blooms small Dec winholme diane 3 blooms ball or large Pom blyton softer gleam 3 blooms min other than ball ryecroft jan 5 blooms Pom
1 bloom giant or large 1 vase 3 blooms med Dec Charlie two 1 vase 3 blooms med cac or semi cac Hillcrest Candy 1 vase 3 blooms small Dec Ryecroft Brenda T 1 vase 3 blooms min Dec Barbarry Pip/ Marston George 1 vase 3 blooms small or min cac or semi cac Ruskin Andrea 1 vase 3 blooms ball or large Pom Mary's Jomanda 1 vase 3 blooms pom 1 vase 3 blooms waterlily
Six of each variety. I could cover all the classes with that quantity and have plenty left over. If you don't have space for 6, reduce the miniatures to 4 of each variety.
The above list is of course biased as they are what I grow, apart from Hillcrest candy and Marston George. However, all the smalls flower well outside, and are nice to grow.
See what others recommend.
|
|
|
Post by Raymond on Sept 17, 2014 10:57:50 GMT
3 blooms med cac or semi cac vals candy 3 blooms med Dec white charlie two 3 blooms small cac or semi cac ryecroft zoe 3 blooms small Dec winholme diane 3 blooms ball or large Pom blyton softer gleam 3 blooms min other than ball ryecroft jan 5 blooms Pom 1 bloom giant or large 1 vase 3 blooms med Dec Charlie two 1 vase 3 blooms med cac or semi cac Hillcrest Candy 1 vase 3 blooms small Dec Ryecroft Brenda T 1 vase 3 blooms min Dec Barbarry Pip/ Marston George 1 vase 3 blooms small or min cac or semi cac Ruskin Andrea 1 vase 3 blooms ball or large Pom Mary's Jomanda 1 vase 3 blooms pom 1 vase 3 blooms waterlily Six of each variety. I could cover all the classes with that quantity and have plenty left over. If you don't have space for 6, reduce the miniatures to 4 of each variety. The above list is of course biased as they are what I grow, apart from Hillcrest candy and Marston George. However, all the smalls flower well outside, and are nice to grow. See what others recommend. Hi scrumpy many thanks. Had already shortlisted Vals candy Winholme Diane Marston George Ryecroft zoe Ryecroft Brenda t Mary's Jomanda I am thinking Collarette garden friends and teasbrook red eye. Waterlily tarahati ruby or cameo Bi colour Weston Spanish or kenora sunset I think I will have to cut down on some classifications. Don't want to bite of more than I can chew think I am already. Learned a hell of a lot this year but got a very steep learning curve ahead of me. So much for me not showing ! @markymate already pointed that out As to be honest I do prefer begonias to dahlias. although they like dahlias I need to improve alot but not had the issues with them like the dahlias.
|
|
|
Post by Raymond on Sept 17, 2014 21:52:39 GMT
Got the new classification directory need to sit study and plan.
|
|
|
Post by Raymond on Sept 18, 2014 16:03:00 GMT
:DHello forum . A question on taking cuttings.
I have seen most people take cuttings just under the the leaf node. I have also seen some people take cuttings smaller in height and take a tiny slice of tubor with it.
Which method is the most consistent in terms of rotting and keeping the stem from hardening off ?
Secondly most people keep the cuttings on some form of heat or in a propagator. I have also heard of people not applying heat in a cold propagator the cutting takes longer to root but still seems to work to a high standard.
Any tips would be appreciated.
|
|
|
Post by ian on Sept 18, 2014 18:55:24 GMT
Hi ya Raymond, cuttings anyway you like as long as they root the rooting medium is the key to wet and there is a chance the will rot or damp off to dry and again they will not root easily, you can root in silver sand, rock wool, perlite, vermiculite or compost there is no need for and feed when rooting cuttings therefore most mediums will be ok if they can hold some moisture. I Personally use my potting compost with some very fine grit of perlite mixed in, I root in 77 cell trays the cells measure approx. 35 mm x 35 mm I root on heated cables and have a mist system so can root in as little as 6 - 7 days on average 12 days the reason I use compost is that if I cannot get to the cuttings to pot up then they will be ok for a few more days. Now I take very small cuttings just beneath a node and choose sometimes to leave the bottom leaves on which in my opinion give a better root ball but I also remove leaves as well. If the leaves on the cuttings are big the do not be frightened to reduce their size by cutting the leaves or as I do just Tate them down, this will reduce the surface area therefore the cutting will stay turgid. Now if you tend to take big cuttings 4-5 inches when they are rooted then they will quickly become large plants the will need moving on quickly. My plants remain small for longer whilst building a bigger root system. The disadvantage of taking cuttings with a little tuber left attached is that yes you tend to get a very good plant but no other cutting come form that eye as you have removed it, they are sometimes called Irish mans cuttings. If you are rooting on the open bench with no heating then they will root but will take a lot longer to root and my be a little hard when rooted with heated cables they will root quicker. A good Idea is once you have taken your cuttings and put them in a moist medium then cover with a plastic cloche and cover with damp news paper if is warm, this will keep the cuttings turgid and in good condition after 2-3 days you can remove the news paper, you will need to spray the cuttings 2-3 times a day.
Your best cuttings are best taken in April rooted within 10-12 days potted up into 7 or 9 cm pots (depends on space) this will take you in to May two to three weeks in that pot then potted up then planted out in the first week of June (May be last week in May) be careful of the frost. I prefer to pot out of 7cm pots if possible tender small plant will get away just as good as bigger plants. Hope this is useful.
If you want to use a rooting compound then do so, I very rarely use any but I do like the baby bio root it gel
Ian
|
|
|
Post by Raymond on Sept 18, 2014 19:06:49 GMT
This is fantastic Ian. Many many thanks. I intend not to get my tubors going until end of Feb beginning of March.I don't have heated greenhouse yet. Making plans so will be in garage on heat mat or other that I am going to buy. All this info is great. Will come back later and write all this down. If my cuttings are a disaster as first attempt then I will get some mini plants and cuttings from Euro dahlia and halls as a back up. Thank you very much for this info Raymond
|
|