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Post by Deleted on Nov 22, 2015 23:29:11 GMT
Ye gods @davidv ! I've just been boasting in my blog about getting my roofgarden and greenhouses tidy and organised. But it's NOTHING compared to the work you have done. Well done ! Are you by any chance retired ? (or at least, not currently working 9-5 ? ) Won't be retired for many many years Roofie and retirement age keeps going up! Its all about making good use of your time. I make lists of jobs to do and if it starts raining heavily I get in one of the greenhouses and work in there. Now the plot is almost clear I section it off into 2 mtr strips with string lines and dig one at a time. You cant do it all in a day but by blitzing one task at a time you can see progress. Admittedly I've been stretched to the limit this year with the veg Dahlias and 9 shows. Will find a way to reduce the workload next year for sure. You seem to be doing ok with your Onions and irrigation projects Roofie, I'd advise anyone interested in some aspect of gardening, be it Onions, or Dahlias/Veg in my case to go for it 100%, don't half do things and you'll get results. 
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cici
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Post by cici on Nov 23, 2015 11:44:07 GMT
David, you mentioned that you 'core' your clump stems. How exactly do you do that? With a pocket knife, drill, etc? How far down do you go in the stem?
Over here in the states, we cut up into individual tubers or at least break clumps in half to avoid stem rot, but it sounds like you have your clump storage down to a science.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 24, 2015 18:43:25 GMT
Hi Cici. I go to some trouble with my tubers to give them the best chance of surviving 3 months storage through the worst of our winter. It's not terribly scientific! It is actually very 'old school' and most of my field tubers survive in good condition. Growing from cuttings (from the set out tubers) you will get a single mainstem which is usually fairly thick and holds lots of water. I saw this down to an inch or so above the crown. The next bit I consider essential but some on here would not agree. I send a 9mm woodbit in a drill straight down the stem and through the other side, this rapidly accelerates drying and the sappy bit in the stem turns woody very soon after. I don't totally core out the inner stem as the drainage from the drill hole is adequate. I drill in preference to using a screwdriver now as I don't need to press on the tuber breaking bits off. The drill just flies through. The tuber in the pic (a clump you call it) is typical in size and I don't consider it too big to store. I would divide a really big one for storage. They won't be replanted but set up in March for cuttings. I've read some of your posts Cici and the 'chicken leg ' method popular over there looks interesting. I may try a few though store them in dry peat like my field tubers. Fabulous display of Dahlias over your white picket fence Cici by the way.
Don't look Moonlight! 
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cici
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Post by cici on Nov 25, 2015 1:20:06 GMT
Simple and effective. Thanks for sharing, David.
I bet those plump clumps from cuttings would overwinter better then single divided tubers. Our clumps from single 'chicken leg' tuber plants can be huge and unwieldy, requiring them to be chopped up. Inspired by this forum, I've done many more cuttings this season then ever before, and the resulting field tubers have been much quicker to prepare for storage, though there are fewer individual tubers to trade or sell.
I have been experimenting with 'planting' the pot in the ground so I can overwinter the pot tuber in the original pot, in order to take cuttings easier in the spring. Several growers I've talked to have said that harder-to-keep varieties do better this way.
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Post by Moonlight on Nov 26, 2015 0:10:17 GMT
Hi Cici. I go to some trouble with my tubers to give them the best chance of surviving 3 months storage through the worst of our winter. It's not terribly scientific! It is actually very 'old school' and most of my field tubers survive in good condition. Growing from cuttings (from the set out tubers) you will get a single mainstem which is usually fairly thick and holds lots of water. I saw this down to an inch or so above the crown. The next bit I consider essential but some on here would not agree. I send a 9mm woodbit in a drill straight down the stem and through the other side, this rapidly accelerates drying and the sappy bit in the stem turns woody very soon after. I don't totally core out the inner stem as the drainage from the drill hole is adequate. I drill in preference to using a screwdriver now as I don't need to press on the tuber breaking bits off. The drill just flies through. The tuber in the pic (a clump you call it) is typical in size and I don't consider it too big to store. I would divide a really big one for storage. They won't be replanted but set up in March for cuttings. I've read some of your posts Cici and the 'chicken leg ' method popular over there looks interesting. I may try a few though store them in dry peat like my field tubers. Fabulous display of Dahlias over your white picket fence Cici by the way.
Don't look Moonlight!
To me it looks like an instrument of torture / visit to the Dentist drill. Nightmare instilling.
I sort of try and do it the complete opposite way - like my Dad does.
But each to their own. If it grows then it is a success. |
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Post by Cat on Nov 26, 2015 18:54:46 GMT
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Post by Moonlight on Nov 26, 2015 23:43:09 GMT
My Dad doesn't wash off all the soil from around the tuber.  His reasoning behind leaving a lot of the soil on is just for tuber protection. Dad said that some tubers when you dig them out are neat, compact balls and that washing off the dirt wouldn't be a problem at all but in his experience those tubers with the longer (my speak 'lobes') and thin connection to the middle are vulnerable to snapping and earth helps take the pressure off those joints. Which lowers the risk of them breaking.
I'll waffle on about it in my Diary - sooner or later - you have been warned Cat !
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Post by Cat on Nov 27, 2015 18:34:26 GMT
Ooh I feel better now Moonlight I haven't washed mine - it didn't feel right so I took it as a gut feeling my parents didn't so I went with that.I'll let you know if I actually manage to get any to survive next spring!! Lol |
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Post by Lou78W on Nov 27, 2015 20:09:36 GMT
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Post by ste b on Nov 28, 2015 10:00:24 GMT
Hi I've tried all different ways of storing tubers washing drilling , in shavings in dry peat, now I leave soil on them box them up in compost and get good results . Better still on my allotment I lift them and in my greenhouse I dig a trench in the boarders and put them straight in about 10-15 inch deep back fill and cover with carpet or compost bags , and I have not lost one , this way the growing eyes don't dry out, which is a big plus if you want quick cuttings.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 28, 2015 12:28:00 GMT
Hi I've tried all different ways of storing tubers washing drilling , in shavings in dry peat, now I leave soil on them box them up in compost and get good results . Better still on my allotment I lift them and in my greenhouse I dig a trench in the boarders and put them straight in about 10-15 inch deep back fill and cover with carpet or compost bags , and I have not lost one , this way the growing eyes don't dry out, which is a big plus if you want quick cuttings. I imagine that would work great steve. I hesitate to do that because I've grown tomatoes in my deep soil greenhouse beds. Tomatoes carry some of the same viruses Dahlias get. Possibly I'm being over cautious. I flood my beds with water after the Toms come out then give it dilute jeyes and cover the beds up then. Agreed your tubers don't dry out completely which seems to be the modern school of thought. I'm aiming at as dry as possible as I'm storing them longer and in dry peat. They are slow to get going admittedly and possibly I don't get as many shoots as you Steve. I've noticed those tiny little tubers you get at Wilkos or similar are super dry, almost shrivelled up but they usually grow Interesting to read the different approaches we have, I'm always willing to take peoples ideas on board if I think It'll be effective.
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cici
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Post by cici on Nov 28, 2015 14:56:11 GMT
Greenhouses seem to be a common thing in the UK. There are some growers in the the states that overwinter their clumps from tuber plants in the ground, by covering the cut stems with plastic tarps and putting 5-6 inches of leave mulch or compost overtop of that for insulation from the cold. I've talked to one novice grower that has been trying to overwinter by piling up all his tuber clumps in a deep hole and packing sand on top for insulation... He has had mixed results, as the top clumps sometimes freeze. His mentor had amazing success for years using a grave digging backhoe to make four foot trenches for his clumps, and burying them again.
Show growers normally don't bother with overwintering clumps outside, as the large clumps from tuber plants need divided into single tubers, or potroots need started before the ground thaws to start cuttings.
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Post by Raymond on Nov 28, 2015 15:24:42 GMT
It is fascinating the different way before store their tubers cici . I will be splitting some this year before they go into storage not into singles but into half. I use vermiculite rather than peat. I stored in both last year and I found the ones in vermiculite stored beautifully. Got to meet robh today he was down visiting family and he kindly brought some lovely tubers for me from him and Ian k I gave him a number in return to try . So nice to meet the person behind the internet persona. So now met four garden friends members this year. Hope to meet more next year. |
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cici
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Post by cici on Nov 28, 2015 17:18:01 GMT
"It is fascinating the different way before store their tubers"
Yes, indeed. It is an endless source of fascination for me as I try to figure out how to perfect my storage technique for maximum preservation.
One of the most popular ways for show growers to store over here is wash the clumps, cut into individual tubers, cure for a week and pack into plastic bags or plastic bins with vermiculite or wood chips. Often the bags/bins are left open or are punctured to allow humidity out.
My storage space is not very good, being too warm, drafty and very humid, so every year I struggle with the best way for my situation. I have always stored them at least three different ways, then compare and learn from the results. Last year I FINALLY learned that plastic is the 'kiss of death' for my space, and have everything packed away in cardboard boxes or bulb crates (with air slots) this year with different packing material (peat moss, vermiculite, shredded paper, dirt on unwashed tubers). I also dipped in fungicide for the first time this fall, all but the three boxes of unwashed clumps. I have checked all the boxes this week,and they are looking good so far with just a month of storage behind them. End of December will be my next check, and I should be able to tell the differences between storage medium at that time. Growers with drafts, too cold or too warm storage areas have extra trials at storage time... No one storage technique works for all.
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Post by Raymond on Nov 28, 2015 22:44:19 GMT
cici I have still to lift some tubers and these I won't wash so I can look at the difference. Got peat here so may try it again. I cannot fault the sprouting of the tubers this year the field and pot tubers all woke up very quickly. Just me being rubbish at the cuttings at the start the problem. I will use cardboard boxes with peat and the titan trays that are very deep for the large tubers and vermiculite. I will put some fleece over the top but not thickly. Last year I used mushroom trays lined in fleece with vermiculite. But it was messy . none stored yet as still drying out. I drill or screw driver the necks on the thick stem varieties. It does help and most of the top growers down here do that.
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